Beech block worktop

[RobinClay]

I'm building a dresser unit in the dining room. This is to fit along the gable wall, between the chimney breast and the front wall of this old house. It's a space just over 1800mm wide, and (obviously) both angles are slightly more than 90 degrees. We are getting a wood-burning stove soon to go in the fireplace.

The cupboard units are 400 each side and 1000mm in the middle, with a 400mm wide x 1345mm tall wall unit either side resting on the worktop, and a 1000mm bridging unit at the top in the middle, with a gap underneath.

About a year ago I bought a 28mm thick beech block worktop; it comes 2m long. It's been in the garage, and I've just brought it into the house to "aclimatise". (1) How long should I let it do so ? It's shrink-wrapped, so I guess (2) I should strip that off now ?

But my main concern / question is (3) how much gap should I leave (if any) between the worktop and the wall ? i.e. how much shorter should the worktop be than the gap between the chimney breast (with a stove on the other side) and the front (outside) wall ? I guess if I cut it exact, then any expansion would be accommodated by it trying to slide forward under a wedging action ? Or would it shrink ?

(4) What is the best method to cut the worktop ? I have a jigsaw, a table saw and a mitre saw, and an old circular saw with a "demolition" type TC blade. Oh, and a reciprocating power saw. And hand-saws, of course... And, No, I don't propose to use either of my tree saws nor my chainsaw

(5) How would you suggest I fix it to the cabinets ? I had thought to use those two-part plastic blocks that bolt together - but would it be better to use steel angle brackets with slotted holes ?

(6) How would you suggest I fix the wall units to the worktop? FGScrews through the base ?

And while I'm on... (7) do you think the plastic legs will be man enough, or should I supplement them with wedges?

So many questions... sorry !

 

[foxhole]

First thing to do is unwrap top and lay flat with timber under it to dry, though covered with plastic if there was any damage to the film it with have absorbed a lot of moisture and may have warped badly.
A 2mm gap should be ok for expansion.
The cabinets you mention, are they kitchen style ? and hence plastic legs?
Given the tools you have either a new fine blade for the circular saw or hand saw.
Slotted metal brackets are stronger and allow for a small amount of movement.

 

[RobinClay]

Thank you so much for your response.

OK, that's (2) - it's now unwrapped, lying flat, on battens. And, yes, the film did have a few holes in, and, yes, it is slightly warped, dished on top, so I've put one of the wall units on top (clear of it) bearing on the sides. So (1) how long should I leave it before cutting ? And (3) shorter by a cuppla mil - Thanks. The width, I guess it won't matter if it swells across, provided it doesn't creep away from the wall if it should then shrink !

(4) - yes, That's what I had thought, too. And a new blade ! With the saw on the underside, i.e. cutting the worktop upside down. Being beech block, there is no "up" nor "down", so I propose to regard the dished surface as the underside, i.e. fix with the hump on top.

(5), OK, slotted brackets - I'll see if I can arrange them such that the only movement allowed is along, rather than across. Mind you, with all that weight, particularly when full of china, holding down fixings are hardly necessary.

(7) yes, it's standard B&Q kitchen stuff with plastic legs adjustable for height, located about an inch in from the side panels. I don't know what loading they can take.

So thanks again - just (1), (6) & (7) still pending...

Oh ! And one other thing ?

The label says it's pre-oiled. I gather from other posts herein that I should oil it again - (8) what sort of oil and how much / how often ?

Thanks once more.

 

[foxhole]

You need to leave at least a couple of weeks, will still be a little shrinkage after that, , secure to cup's with stretcher plates, [they have slotted holes].
http://www.screwfix.com/p/stretcher...m Pack of 10&gclid=CJ7lyJO-460CFcxofAod11U99Q

The legs are strong enough, [they will take a granite top.]
You mat be able to reduce the hump with a heavy weight on top while drying.
'Top oil' for sealing.
http://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/Bamboo-Worktops/Osmo-Top-Oil-500ml/prod_543.html

 

[RobinClay]

That's absolutely first class - thank you very much indeed.

Not only have you given me advice, you've given me confidence an' all.

//www.diynot.com/network/RobinClay/albums/11178

 

[big-all]

just to add to the brilliant and exact information that foxhole has given
i always suggest that units should be free standing
if i make a unit and its fitted its part off the structure off the house so you cannot take it with you unless stated
i always prefer an overlap on tops off around 20-25mm then live with the odd few mm gaps then that allows the unit to be moved to as and when you wish to perhaps another room as its free standing

 

[RobinClay]

Thanks, Big-all for your endorsement.

You're not wrong, but Yes, we want it built-in, to fill the space, and No, we would not want ever to move it (it's a big bugger, and very heavy !) nor take it with us.

 

[RobinClay]

O.K. ... that was a fortnight ago. The worktop I left under weights in the dining room, and it is now plane to the eye, i.e. no longer warped. Meanwhile my circular saw died, so I have bought another - but it came with a "standard" TCT 48 tpi blade - and I haven't found any other type that would fit (185x20). Will that do ? Cutting, of course, from the underside...

I have cut a scribed template out of cardboard... but (of course) the wall is not straight, i.e. the end of the worktop will be curved (convex, longer in the middle that at back & front). Oh, and both ends are tapered, i.e. shorter at the back than at the front.

Heigh-ho. What fun we shall have.

 

[RobinClay]

No; it all went pretty well, and we are pleased with the result.

Thank you for your help.

 

[joinerjohn]

I hope you oiled the underside of the worktop before installing it, then oiled the w/top once it was in place.

 

[RobinClay]

Of course !

Prarper Jarb