Beko DE 2431 DISHWASHER - fills/empties, but no Swishee!

[peskywinnets]

Got ourselves a Beko DE 2431 dishwasher, which alas, no longer cleans the dishes.

When I start a cycle, it fills with water...it eventually stops filling at which point some swishing should be heard....but presently it's a swish free zone. I explained to my wife that the dishwasher still fills & empties....what more does she want - but apparently she needs some serious swishing. (sheesh - wimmen, schwimmen)

Now I've had the baseplate off & can only see one significant motor....isn't the same motor used to empty? (the dishwasher still empties fine)...I'm inclined to think there's a solenoid not solenoiding somewhere (pesky solenoids eh?).

Info seems scant on the internet, there was one puzzling circuit diagram (puzzling not cos I'm not technical, but puzzling becuase it was drawn by a p1ssed Turk who used bizarre symbols)....

http://i49.tinypic.com/28r1thw.jpg

(schematic not exactly the same model, but close as - I gleefully nicked the jpg URL from this thread.... http://www.diybanter.com/home-repai...-swishing-circulation-pump-gets-no-power.html )

My question is, if a dishwasher fills, sits there contemplating, rather than swishing, will my wife eventually get tired of the dishes piling up & leave me? If so, I'm inclined to leave it as is

(ok, I really mean what could be the cause of the lack of swish?)

 

[zipper]

There is a circulation motor & a drain pump. These are the best illustrations I could find http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/adva...ch_in_description=1&keywords=DE+2431&x=33&y=8 The circulation motor has a 6 or 8uf capacitor mounted on the motor body. This may be defective in which case the motor will hum but not start. The same applies if the motor impellor is damaged or jammed by a rogue piece of glass or similar. Check to see if the motor turns freely first, if it does get the capacitor checked out.

 

[peskywinnets]

Thanks for the reply....a lot of dishwater troubleshooting info on the net (& youtube videos too!), also mention checking if the motor turns freely, I'm assuming the circulation pump/motor (gimme swishee) in this case is the largest silver motor at the bottom right of this photo I've just aken...



for the life of me I can't see how I can test this (there's no obvious place on the mothor to squeeze a screwdriver in to try & spin the blades ....I can't see any blades!



I'd imagine the turning parts are under the white housing at the top of it?

 

[peskywinnets]

Well, I whipped a clip off the rubber hose connecting into the white housing - a bit of crud in there, but the thing turns....move along, there's nothing to see here.

I'm just wondering what that big cap does - we had a burst pipe here & the kitchen took a direct hit - about a fortnight ago (while we were away), so I'm wondering if anything could have been damaged by that (that said, it has been working until two days ago).

Any idea what value the cap should typically be (I can't see its markings)- I have a capacitance meter somewhere. I'm figuring that it's an electrolytic cap....full of paper, and paper isn't renowned for it's waterproof qualites!

Edit: Is the cap just an RF filter to stop Eastenders being spammed with RF? If so, that aion't the problem then!

 

[zipper]

Yes that's the circulation motor. I probably gave you the wrong capacitor value earlier....these caps are typically around 4uf. It should only held in place by an 8mm nut at the base, so if you loosen that you ought to be able to remove it easily once you pull off the spade connectors. No the capacitor on the motor is not an RF cap, that is someplace else. They don't cost much to buy.....

 

[peskywinnets]

Ok....thanks.

I managed to get the cap out - it tests out at around 3.5uf....so I'm figuring that's not the cause.

I guess my next option is to get the dishwasher up on some supports, just so I can fill it via a normal wash cycle, and get underneath to see if there's mains present on the circulation pump (I'm thinking it needs to be full with level/fill switches closed before the control board will send mains to i - hence needing to be underneath while it's full)