Bending a brass float arm

[mike004]

I'm trying to diagnose an intermittent overflow from the cold water storage tank in the loft.

The ball cock does not seem to shut off after I have had a bath in the evening. A slight drip remains, and by morning the tank is overflowing.

The accepted quick fix for this seems to be to bend the float valve arm down a touch. I tried doing this by hand, but the 1970s brass arm seems a bit too thick for me to bend.
Should I use some pliers?

 

[HERTS P&D]

Replace the washer or better still, replace the float valve.


Andy

 

[Diyisfun]

By bending the float arm all you doing is making the water level lower in the tank.
You need a new washer.

 

[keithsb]

If changing the diaphragm does not fix it, then its a better option to change the whole assembly, they are not expensive.
Often you will find that the water has "worn" the valve seating, and nothing you can do, will stop it leaking. I have learned this from experience over the 30 years I have been in this house.

Bending the arm, if it does not snap, will only increase the pressure slightly, and is unlikely to stop the leak in the long term.

 

[mike004]

If changing the diaphragm does not fix it, then its a better option to change the whole assembly, they are not expensive.
Often you will find that the water has "worn" the valve seating, and nothing you can do, will stop it leaking. I have learned this from experience over the 30 years I have been in this house.

Bending the arm, if it does not snap, will only increase the pressure slightly, and is unlikely to stop the leak in the long term.

Thanks.
Access to the tank is very restricted. It is shoved right under the roof. Any tinkering with the float arm must be done blind.
And I am not keen to start undoing 30 yr old connections to the tank that have remained leak-free. So I thought a "quick-fix" option might be worth it.

 

[Jake1886]

Get a plumber to do it then

 

[keithsb]

Thanks.
Access to the tank is very restricted. It is shoved right under the roof. Any tinkering with the float arm must be done blind.
And I am not keen to start undoing 30 yr old connections to the tank that have remained leak-free. So I thought a "quick-fix" option might be worth it.

Well if its lasted that long, you are very lucky! The point is that you have a leak, out of the overflow.
It may fail totally and your overflow may not cope.
A damaged ceiling will cost you more than a plumber.

 

[joe-90]

A damaged ceiling will cost you more than a plumber.

...but it's a close run thing.

 

[Burnerman]

If the valve is 30 yr old then replace it with a quality type 2 one......you could also consider putting a stopcock in the feed to the tank which, if that is done first, gives you more time to work.
John

 

[mike004]

If the valve is 30 yr old then replace it with a quality type 2 one......you could also consider putting a stopcock in the feed to the tank which, if that is done first, gives you more time to work.
John

At the moment it's a type 1 float valve. Surely I should replace like with like?

There is a stopcock on the rising main in the loft. Unfortunately, it's seized up. I'm weighing up how to unseize it without damaging any nearby joints.

 

[picasso]

type 1 arent allowed on cold water tanks unless fitted with a dcv, why not fit a part 2 and save the hassle, cut out the old stopcock (it is 30 years old) and fit a lever ball valve.

 

[Nige F]

If .

Access to the tank is very restricted. It is shoved right under the roof. Any tinkering with the float arm must be done blind.
And I am not keen to start undoing 30 yr old connections to the tank that have remained leak-free. .

You`ve had 30 years out of it - pay a plumber say, £60 all in - and get another 30 years Edit - £ 70 just read about the stopcock .

 

[mike004]

type 1 arent allowed on cold water tanks unless fitted with a dcv, why not fit a part 2 and save the hassle, cut out the old stopcock (it is 30 years old) and fit a lever ball valve.

Not sure a compression fit ball valve would fit in exactly if I cut out the old stopcock.

View media item 30195

 

[Burnerman]

Slacken off the gland nut (the small one below the turn handle) and get some WD40 in there......the stopcock doesn't look particularly old or corroded and I'm sure it will come free. You wont upset the soldered joints either.
The type 2 valve can be adjusted by moving the float up the arm which removes any need to bend the brass arm.
John

 

[xr4x4]

leave the old stop cock there and fit a new one some where else.

on the tank you will know if bending the arm will work by holding the arm up with your hand, if it stops dripping its worth a try.

unlikey tho, due to the age.