Bentone Burner B9C issue

[Ahab36]

Help!

I'm having problems with a Bentone Burner B9C...can't find any web sites or contact numbers for a tech line to help me out.
does one exist???? or can anyone help me with this dilemma?

basically burner fires nearly everytime i'm there... i leave and it stops working. the oil pump has been renewed the fan is working and the air setting is correct. so why does this happen. i've bled the oil line just incase of air in the pipe and i've renewed the hoses and nozzle. Worcester said they could only come out at a charge of £213.00 + vat. i don't think so??

ahab

 

[Boilerman2]

There are loads of Good independant Service engineers in Shropshire who would charge abut £75 +Vat for an Hour on site, ask a neighbour for a recommendation
Worchester will not repair anything not directly connected to the boiler i.e wont touch a blocked oil filter of faulty fire valve!
a good local guy will sort you for much less dosh!!

 

[greemyamochop]

Was a new coil fitted with the pump?

 

[Agile]

The oil supply is only one part of the ignition process.

The second is an appropriately timed ignition voltage applied to the ignition electrodes which need to be correctly spaced apart and positioned relative to the nozzle.

The third requirement is that the flame detection is activated within the time delay before it otherwise goes to lockout.

Tony

 

[Ahab36]

The oil supply is only one part of the ignition process.

The second is an appropriately timed ignition voltage applied to the ignition electrodes which need to be correctly spaced apart and positioned relative to the nozzle.

The third requirement is that the flame detection is activated within the time delay before it otherwise goes to lockout.

Tony

Hi Tony, Thanks for your reply.

Yes the electrodes are spaced correctly and there is a voltage charge that runs through it.

Is the flame detector the photo cell????

When it is ignited it does sound as though it is coughing and spluttering.

I don't suppose you have a contact number for Bentone? or any other suggestions.

I am a fully qualified engineer, but this boiler really does have me beat!!!

Ahab

 

[Burnerman]

Personally I've never heard of the B9C - B9A and B certainly, and a B11C No matter.
Just a tip or two, really - is the boiler clean inside, regarding soot on the baffles, etc?
Next, if your burner is chuffing it could be down to fuel pump pressure, which needs to be checked before you go any further.
The photocell is the flame detecting device - if it sees flame it keeps the oil supply switched on.
John

 

[Ahab36]

Personally I've never heard of the B9C - B9A and B certainly, and a B11C No matter.
Just a tip or two, really - is the boiler clean inside, regarding soot on the baffles, etc?
Next, if your burner is chuffing it could be down to fuel pump pressure, which needs to be checked before you go any further.
The photocell is the flame detecting device - if it sees flame it keeps the oil supply switched on.
John

Thanks John.

Oil pressure set correctly, Photocell ok. It worked all ok over the weekend then come Monday Morning it stopped. Think it is some ignition problem, but not sure what else to try - everything is set up by the book, but just stops when I leave!!

Ahab

 

[Burnerman]

When the burner fails, can you hear the motor start up first? Was a new nozzle fitted?
This is the sequence, nigh enough......
Switch on, motor starts and runs for 10 sec to purge the flue with fresh air. The fan and pump are naturally spinning too.
Then, ignition gives a spark to the electrodes, and the oil is electrically switched on.
Once the flame is established, the photocell keeps the oil switched on, and the ignition spark stops.
So - does the motor start up every time? Is the oil pressure somewhere around 130 psi, at a guess?
If you want to investigate further, you can pop the burner out from the boiler, disconnect the pump solenoid coil (to prevent oil being forced through the nozzle) and see where the spark is and whether or not it is continuous. Look for cracks or tracking marks in the igniter vicinity and also look for spark marks on the nozzle or blast tube. If the electrodes aren't properly set, the spark could be diverting about.
John

 

[Ahab36]

Hi i'm here again after some help with this bentone B9C burner.

Thanks to those who sent a message back to me but alot of wot you have suggested i have already tried or know?? However, any further help would be appreciated.

Been to the boiler this morning for four hours. Two of which I managed to get the burner running, thought i'd achived what ever was wrong. Reset the boiler controls, cleaned up and then left. Received a call about an hour ago, to say the boiler has locked its self out again.

HELP!!!!!!!!

I have already changed the nozzle and hoses and oil pump. I've adjusted the ignition electrodes incase they were out of line, and found no fault with them.

"What i did find on my investigations, whilst trying to set the correct position for the electrodes was that I was not getting the oil vapor through, could the solenoid valve be sticking? (as the solenoid is part of the oil pump on this danfoss model, it's been renewed, could the control box on the main burner be responsible for this? if so, should I replace it?)

HELP!!!!!!

Burner model is a B9C and is on a Worcester Danesmoor wall mounted 12/19.

Thanks
Ahab.

 

[slapper]

Dont you think you should check the oil flow especially on a WALL mounted boiler, are you an engineer or householder?