My house was built in 1950, and has ungalvanised, steel "Crittall-style" windows which are generally in good condition and which suit the style of the house so well that I've kept them even though all the neighbours are on their 2nd, 3rd or even 4th lot of uPVC replacements.
Unsurprisingly, every few years, a pane will crack because of rust developing in the rebate where the putty has failed. Replacement of the pane is fairly quick and easy - hack out old glass and putty, sand/wire brush rusty area, metal primer and undercoat, fit glass, then topcoat.
My question is: what kind of putty should I be using? I've always used a multipurpose/universal putty from the shop where I buy the glass or from one of the usual DIY sheds, which is described as "suitable for timber and metal windows" and it all looks great to start with. But a year or two down the line, the paint and putty's gone crinkly and and sometimes there's an oily gunge seeping from the rebate. Very annoying after taking a lot of care to do a nice neat job.
I've experimented with leaving the putty to well and truely go off properly for several weeks before overpainting, but the same thing always happens. I did try a synthetic glazing putty in a gun cartridge too, but found it was far too runny for this kind of application.
Any ideas, anyone (other than double glazing )
Cheers,
Chris.
Unsurprisingly, every few years, a pane will crack because of rust developing in the rebate where the putty has failed. Replacement of the pane is fairly quick and easy - hack out old glass and putty, sand/wire brush rusty area, metal primer and undercoat, fit glass, then topcoat.
My question is: what kind of putty should I be using? I've always used a multipurpose/universal putty from the shop where I buy the glass or from one of the usual DIY sheds, which is described as "suitable for timber and metal windows" and it all looks great to start with. But a year or two down the line, the paint and putty's gone crinkly and and sometimes there's an oily gunge seeping from the rebate. Very annoying after taking a lot of care to do a nice neat job.
I've experimented with leaving the putty to well and truely go off properly for several weeks before overpainting, but the same thing always happens. I did try a synthetic glazing putty in a gun cartridge too, but found it was far too runny for this kind of application.
Any ideas, anyone (other than double glazing )
Cheers,
Chris.