Best sheet material for cupboard

[icarusbop]

Hello:

My daughter has a bay window, in which she wants a window seat with two cupboard doors on the front.

My current idea is use a sheet material and cut the holes for the cupboard doors, when I've hung the doors I plan to use mouldings around the edges to make them look more like doors.

The entire room is being decorated, the current plan is to use lining paper on the walls to make them smooth then paint over it with the colour of choice. We can also put lining paper over the cupboard sheet material and paint this too, this would make the windows seat/cupboard look like part of the room.

So, since the surface of the sheet material will not be visible or painted directly, what would be the best material to make it from? I was considering MDF, but mounting the hinges in the edges might prove to be difficult so was wondering about chipboard or OSB instead?

Regards

Ian

 

[Lower]

I would use MDF and wouldn't mount the hinges in the edges in any of the materials you've suggested. i would use kitchen door type hinges.

 

[BIGbadmarky]

My Father in law built a cupboard in our nursery and used 18mm mdf. I would suggest yours may need some form of timber structure underneath if it is going to be a seat (not trying to suggest your family are porkers or anything).
The FIL used cabinet hinges which mount to the inside surface of the cupboard. Also, My FIL told me to run a thin bead of plaster along the edges of the mdf, smooth it off then paint it. You know what, the crazy fool was on to something there. It gives a nice edge to the mdf.

 

[foxhole]

73C1FF75-B767-4398-9901-8B9631736425

• foxhole
• 5 Feb 2018

Window seat

You could avoid the doors ( and scrabbling around on knees to use a low storage space ) by making the seat an access point.
I used 18mm mdf and kitchen worktop, overhung to front 100mm so you don’t trap fingers when dropping ( gas struts under to hold up when in use ).
Also covers a radiator under window.

 

[big-all]

is this for say 5+ or say 12+ year old
you can use 12mm mdf no problem
jigsaw a strait edge and say 6" top and bottom
affix a piano hinge on the face
then join the the top and bottom edges providing you have no rapid direction changes the door can be virtually any shape you like
or you can affix the piano hinge to the edge no problem 2.5mm pilot holes no4x 5/8 or 3/4" screws or 3mmx 16-20mm


foxhols idea is best in most instances
you can use loose tops that lift out that can be safer if a cussion is on the top

 

[foxhole]

is this for say 5+ or say 12+ year old
you can use 12mm mdf no problem
jigsaw a strait edge and say 6" top and bottom
affix a piano hinge on the face
then join the the top and bottom edges providing you have no rapid direction changes the door can be virtually any shape you like
or you can affix the piano hinge to the edge no problem 2.5mm pilot holes no4x 5/8 or 3/4" screws or 3mmx 16-20mm


foxhols idea is best in most instances
you can use loose tops that lift out that can be safer if a cussion is on the top

12mm mdf with 20mm screw thru it? Or in edge? Would rip out and split mdf.

 

[big-all]

if you pilot first your fine yes 12mm screws on the face also do not tighten with an impact only use a drill driver or driver slow speed and tighten the last 2 turns with a hand screwdriver unless you have finesse with a driver
the only problem you get with the piano hinges on the edge is the piano hinge is 15mm from face to back closed so you have with the nuckle proud by say 1mm to put the hinge point on the front face you will have 2mm sticking out the back

 

[foxhole]

if you pilot first your fine yes 12mm screws on the face also do not tighten with an impact only use a drill driver or driver slow speed and tighten the last 2 turns with a hand screwdriver unless you have finesse with a driver
the only problem you get with the piano hinges on the edge is the piano hinge is 15mm from face to back closed so you have with the nuckle proud by say 1mm to put the hinge point on the front face you will have 2mm sticking out the back

Then you have screw protruding right thru timber .?

 

[big-all]

no i didnt mention 12mm screws to 12mm mdf as thats self explanatory
you dont even get a point sticking out as the screw head is fully on the surface of the hinge
i have perhaps hung 50 doors end on from small ones about 300mm up to full height 8ft/1220mm with a perhaps 2-5% chance off local delamination which 90% off the time is not important and sanding flat is all thats needed to remove the small hump thats there
indeed if you take a 4x 3/4" screw into the end and try and lever it out with a claw hammer you will be astounded as the effort required
most think a pair off pliers will pull them out easily

 

[foxhole]

no i didnt mention 12mm screws to 12mm mdf as thats self explanatory
you dont even get a point sticking out as the screw head is fully on the surface of the hinge
i have perhaps hung 50 doors end on from small ones about 300mm up to full height 8ft/1220mm with a perhaps 2-5% chance off local delamination which 90% off the time is not important and sanding flat is all thats needed to remove the small hump thats there
indeed if you take a 4x 3/4" screw into the end and try and lever it out with a claw hammer you will be astounded as the effort required
most think a pair off pliers will pull them out easily

Can’t agree screws in 12mm just fall out with very little leverage and 12mm mdf warps extremely easily especially in large sections.
Also 18mm is often cheaper as its a popular size .

 

[big-all]

eeeehhh i am talking from experience
i am not guessing
i have given pilot hole sizes and screw sizes as thats what works
i fully agree mdf is so so easy to get wrong but thats why i give all the information to get it right
the only reason i mentioned mdf is its great for "artistic" shapes in kiddies rooms a lorry shaped door or a castle shaped door etc and will easily last the 3-4 years before needing updated to a young persons room