I have a shallow bow window reveal with hard plaster on the sides (old house, solid plaster walls) but because of the projection of the bow, the head of the opening (under the lintel) has a sheet of plasterboard. This has been removed during the replacement of the window and now a new sheet of plasterboard needs to go back up. The old stuff was nailed to 25mm battens which were strapped to the underside of the lintel with twisted wires! But the new window openers would collide with the lining is it was reattached to the battens again. Ideally the board would be snug against the steel. How would I do that?
Best way to fix plasterboard to underside of lintel?
- Thread starter vexation
- Start date
Grab adhesive.
I didn't think that was allowed by building control?
Solid bed of dab adhesive on both board and lintel
OK, so it sounds like a mechanical fixing isn't also required. Usually you'd have a vertical sheet each side to support the ends - although this opening is 2.4m wide so they'd not be much help anyway. I guess expanding foam along the top of the upvc frame might catch the end to the window? can't get much in the way of support there either. Unfortunately the top of the frame is level with the underside of the lintel so can't lip the board over the top of the frame. Although I suppose I could stick some batten to project out off the topside of the PB to sit on the frame.
Which it is if under a lintel
Back to square one. Do dry-lined openings over patio doors, wider windows etc. with catnic style lintels above always have a mechanical fixing into the steel? In which case how's it done?
I suppose a countersunk self tapper would work - if I can avoid all the perforations! There's plenty of self-drilling screws around but they tend to have hex heads.
I'm still intrigued by the question of how often a mech fixing is used in this kind of application. Having browsed YouTube over a couple of evenings for insights into lining window reveals, a consensus seems to have formed around plasterers just whacking the boards up again the lintels with drywall adhesive. Naughty or not?
Catnic lintels offer up to 1hr fire protection. If a catnic has been correctly specified you don't need additional fire protection.
That's the answer then. Nobody cares if the plasterboard falls off due to the lack of mech fixings - because the lintel itself is good for an hour.
I'm amazed that an unprotected folded sheet steel lintel can retain its full load bearing capacity in a fire for an hour when a 12 Gauge steel column needs additional one hour protection (according to my BCO)
It's to do with the shape of the section and how the steel deforms when heated, not just that both are made of steel. And to an extent the different loading characteristics of UB section and a catnic lintel.
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