Best way to tackle primer bubbling

[pgtips]

Hi
Reaching out for some help as this job is torture.

Previously plastered and tiled wall, had paint on it too.
New kitchen, tiles off.

Got it super smooth with some surface filler, really pleased.

Applied emulsion but under led under cabinet lights it looked dreadful so I rubbed down, more filler and sanding, perfect iand smooth.

Paint, small test area, and again awful.

Ok, primer. Got some zinsser guardz and applied it to all the wall but it too is bubbling and the whole wall, small 2msq above worktop, just looks appalling.

I understand why I've got the problem (reacting) but asking for a sanity check on how to tackle.

Do I keep putting guardz on, rub down, more guardz etc until it remains stable or a different route?.
My understanding is guardz is excellent and soaks into the substrate to bond/stabilise it but this is a first for me.
Guardz is very thin, like water.

Logic head says if I'm sanding down I'm sanding it off , do I just keep going in this little circle until the reaction stops? (sand/apply/sand/apply...)

Thank you,
Kev

 

[michealangelo]

The emulsion you applied has kick started the plaster and as you have found out is reacting with the paint and breaking it up

If you have time on your hands can you leave it to break down by itself for a while ?

Then once it's slowed down don't go sanding scrapping or rubbing ....that will irritate it again .....coat it 3 or 4 times in proper drying stages .....usually 3 hours a coat of guardz ? ......give it another day ......then try painting

I think you are continually poking an angry bear by sanding etc ...it needs a bit of Time to calm down then properly seal it with coats of alkali primer ....as things are you are starting off the chemical reaction chain again , every time

Frustrating but worth a try?

 

[pgtips]

Thank you for the reply. I let the first coat of guardz dry, proper drying time, it's a bit like a resin surface now, much tougher so I'm going to have to go down in grit it's so hard.

The reaction as it went on left things a bit rough so I'll sand a test area tomorrow then another coat of guardz and post back next week how it's going.
I'm optimistic the guardz will break the chain reaction.

Never used it before but it's clever how it's working.
Kev

 

[michealangelo]

Thank you for the reply. I let the first coat of guardz dry, proper drying time, it's a bit like a resin surface now, much tougher so I'm going to have to go down in grit it's so hard.

The reaction as it went on left things a bit rough so I'll sand a test area tomorrow then another coat of guardz and post back next week how it's going.
I'm optimistic the guardz will break the chain reaction.

Never used it before but it's clever how it's working.
Kev

I would leave the surface completely for a while, that's the problem , sanding , adding guardz , sanding ....its setting it off over and over

Guardz will do the trick but at the right time ....let the sleeping bear have a long nap

 

[pgtips]

Hi,

I just thought I would follow up my own post and thank you again @michealangelo .

The primer Zinsser Guardz had reacted when I applied it which concerned me but on the back of the tin it does actually give you a bit of a heads up how to go about using it in tricky spots. I'll be honest in more years than I care to remember I have never had a reaction to paint like this.

So the guardz went on and it also reacted but it seemed to zap or neutralise whatever was underneath and it dried forming a clear hard resin like surface.
Rub down a bit, more filler (this time I used a decent polyfilla rather than Screwfix no nonsense).

Then more guardz. Repeated in one tiny area, filler, gentle sand and guardz and bingo, it looked great, felt smooth, now for the paint.!

Phew !! I am over the moon. It went on exactly as you'd expect paint to go on, 2 coats, flat and a third its a superb job, I've waitind a couple of weeks and its stable

So I can thoroughly recommend zinsser, its the second time its bailed me out, last time I had crackling paint which it fixed. (I used the green mould resistant white matt which bonded beautifully)

I also recommend decent filler, that may or may not have contributed to my problem. I just didn't have any gyproc so used SF no nonsense surface filler but you really can tell when you rub it down how feeble it is, really powdery. Gyproc and PolyfillaOne Fill is nice to work with.

Hope this all helps someone who might have reacting paint.

PG

 

[michealangelo]

Hi,

I just thought I would follow up my own post and thank you again @michealangelo .

The primer Zinsser Guardz had reacted when I applied it which concerned me but on the back of the tin it does actually give you a bit of a heads up how to go about using it in tricky spots. I'll be honest in more years than I care to remember I have never had a reaction to paint like this.

So the guardz went on and it also reacted but it seemed to zap or neutralise whatever was underneath and it dried forming a clear hard resin like surface.
Rub down a bit, more filler (this time I used a decent polyfilla rather than Screwfix no nonsense).

Then more guardz. Repeated in one tiny area, filler, gentle sand and guardz and bingo, it looked great, felt smooth, now for the paint.!

Phew !! I am over the moon. It went on exactly as you'd expect paint to go on, 2 coats, flat and a third its a superb job, I've waitind a couple of weeks and its stable

So I can thoroughly recommend zinsser, its the second time its bailed me out, last time I had crackling paint which it fixed. (I used the green mould resistant white matt which bonded beautifully)

I also recommend decent filler, that may or may not have contributed to my problem. I just didn't have any gyproc so used SF no nonsense surface filler but you really can tell when you rub it down how feeble it is, really powdery. Gyproc and PolyfillaOne Fill is nice to work with.

Hope this all helps someone who might have reacting paint.

PG

Great news

Persistence rewards the persistent