biasi 24s no hw

[smokenfly]

Hi guys newbie here

Got a problem with above boiler CH working fine HW turn tap on it hot cold then goes lukewarm and stays lukewarm aslong as taps are on
Plumber has been changed Heat exchanger plate the full diverter valve diaphram ntc but still problem persists although he did say he is using 2nd hand parts.

Please help guys

Thanks in advance

 

[smokenfly]

Please help guys anyone

 

[transam]

I assume that when you turn on the hot tap the boiler stays alight ? there are 2 n.t.c probes on that boiler , 1 is for h.w & the other C.H , I assume you changed both ?? you than need to get your gas valve checked .
The main conrol P.C.B could be another culprit as this deals with temp control & is connected to the gas valves modulating coil .

 

[smokenfly]

I assume that when you turn on the hot tap the boiler stays alight ? there are 2 n.t.c probes on that boiler , 1 is for h.w & the other C.H , I assume you changed both ?? you than need to get your gas valve checked .
The main conrol P.C.B could be another culprit as this deals with temp control & is connected to the gas valves modulating coil .[/quote

Yes boiler stays alight yes the ntc for hw has been changed.. boiler stays alight fine so could the gas valve still be a problem? Pcb board was checked and no signs of burn marks as i was told by plumber.

The plumber has now advised to buy a new diverter valve as it seems that it is not diverting the water properly??

Thanks

 

[transam]

When the boiler is in the H.W mode the , full demand ,tap fully open the gas rate should go to high , e.g its max , the primary circuit (temp gauge) should achieve a temp of 75 degs C , all your divertor valve does is divert water around the heat exc into the plate exc' or around heat exc' out of boiler to rads. the main pcb , deals with temp control e.g it recieves imfo' from user controls , n.t.c's ect , (Inlet Imformation), & than controls the boiler based upon this imfo ' a pcb need not show any signs of arcing to be faulty .

 

[smokenfly]

When the boiler is in the H.W mode the , full demand ,tap fully open the gas rate should go to high , e.g its max , the primary circuit (temp gauge) should achieve a temp of 75 degs C , all your divertor valve does is divert water around the heat exc into the plate exc' or around heat exc' out of boiler to rads. the main pcb , deals with temp control e.g it recieves imfo' from user controls , n.t.c's ect , (Inlet Imformation), & than controls the boiler based upon this imfo ' a pcb need not show any signs of arcing to be faulty .

The temp gauge is not reaching temp it sits at 30 gegs with hw tap on.. Will have the plumber look into the pcb board.

Also i just noticed if i turn the temp down on the boiler (for hot water) and open the tap a little bit the water does get hot better than normal??

Thanks

 

[transam]

If your rgi , is able to obtain max , gas pressure at the gas valve when the boiler is in the C.H mode , with the boilers stat on max ' than as I see , the prob is with your control board , if you have not got a manual it can be dwn loaded from biasi' website , they are one of the best manuals suplied with a boiler . There is a chap called agile on this site , he may well pick up this thread , he's well clued up on biasi boilers. & may offer a 2nd opinion ???

 

[smokenfly]

If your rgi , is able to obtain max , gas pressure at the gas valve when the boiler is in the C.H mode , with the boilers stat on max ' than as I see , the prob is with your control board , if you have not got a manual it can be dwn loaded from biasi' website , they are one of the best manuals suplied with a boiler . There is a chap called agile on this site , he may well pick up this thread , he's well clued up on biasi boilers. & may offer a 2nd opinion ???

Much appreciated thanks for your help, Hopefully agile picks up on this thread.

Thanks once again

 

[Agile]

I am not very impressed by your "plumber" !

My preference is for someone who diagnoses the problem and then fits NEW parts!

Worse I suspect he has already messed something up. Thats not the way to diagnose faults.

Run the hot water at about 8 litres per minute. Watch the flame size and slowly turn the water temperature DOWN starting from the fully clockwise position. The flame should start at maximum and then only get SMALLER as you turn it anticlockwise.

If at any point it gets LARGER then it seems he has fitted the knob shaft at 180° to the correct position. That may even have damaged the 4.7k pot on the PCB.

He may need to be sacked from the job!

I am watching an ER following a case of necrotising fasciitis which is just about one case per 15M people per annum so not concentrating fully on the forum.

Tony

 

[smokenfly]

I am not very impressed by your "plumber" !

My preference is for someone who diagnoses the problem and then fits NEW parts!

Worse I suspect he has already messed something up. Thats not the way to diagnose faults.

Run the hot water at about 8 litres per minute. Watch the flame size and slowly turn the water temperature DOWN starting from the fully clockwise position. The flame should start at maximum and then only get SMALLER as you turn it anticlockwise.

If at any point it gets LARGER then it seems he has fitted the knob shaft at 180° to the correct position. That may even have damaged the 4.7k pot on the PCB.

He may need to be sacked from the job!

I am watching an ER following a case of necrotising fasciitis which is just about one case per 15M people per annum so not concentrating fully on the forum.

Tony

He's no got paid for anything and won't do after what your telling me,

sorry what do you mean knob shaft? Also you say he may have damaged the pcb board i persume you mean the smaller of the 2?

Thanks mate

 

[Agile]

You said it was a Biasi 24S but it now sounds as if its really an M90 or an M96.

If so the knob shaft may have been refitted the wrong way round or may just have been snapped off.

Please confirm the exact model number but still do the test I asked for! The knobs are all the same size ! Its the DHW temperature knob I am referring to.

Tony

 

[smokenfly]

You said it was a Biasi 24S but it now sounds as if its really an M90 or an M96.

If so the knob shaft may have been refitted the wrong way round or may just have been snapped off.

Please confirm the exact model number but still do the test I asked for! The knobs are all the same size ! Its the DHW temperature knob I am referring to.

Tony

It is a biasi 24s, i did the test you mentioned and the burners do go down when i turn the temp control down.

also what i did was turned the pressure down on the main stop cock and that seem's to have helped quite alot, the plumber is still not sure what to do.

thanks

 

[Agile]

If it was working properly it would heat about 8 litres per minute to hot hand temperature at a TAP.

In that condition the temp gauge would be at about 60° C and the 1 cu ft test dial on an imperial gas meter would take about 38 seconds per rev.

You do really seem to have a nupty plumber with very little idea of how to repair boilers. Most boiler repairs are boringly simple.

Tony

 

[smokenfly]

If it was working properly it would heat about 8 litres per minute to hot hand temperature at a TAP.

In that condition the temp gauge would be at about 60° C and the 1 cu ft test dial on an imperial gas meter would take about 38 seconds per rev.

You do really seem to have a nupty plumber with very little idea of how to repair boilers. Most boiler repairs are boringly simple.

Tony

I don't know what to do mate but as i stated earlier with the main stop cock turned down does work alot better and temp does rise to 60 degs but tap not open fully thought.

Wish you was local to have a look at it for us.

Thanks

 

[nogoodatfaultfinding]

If it was working properly it would heat about 8 litres per minute to hot hand temperature at a TAP.

In that condition the temp gauge would be at about 60° C and the 1 cu ft test dial on an imperial gas meter would take about 38 seconds per rev.

You do really seem to have a nupty plumber with very little idea of how to repair boilers. Most boiler repairs are boringly simple.

Tony

I don't know what to do mate but as i stated earlier with the main stop cock turned down does work alot better and temp does rise to 60 degs but tap not open fully thought.

Wish you was local to have a look at it for us.

Thanks

What is your pressure gauge reading?