biasi 424s
- Thread starter ollski
- Start date
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Technically a Savio rather than a Biasi.
No filters in the heating circuit that I can remember.
I will try to look at my workshop example ( or the book ) later.
Can you describe the symptions in more detail?
Tony
No filters in the heating circuit that I can remember.
I will try to look at my workshop example ( or the book ) later.
Can you describe the symptions in more detail?
Tony
It actually is the savio model tony, but I thought I'd say biasi as someone may have heard of it.
Right.... no hot water, spindle not moving at all so diaphragm is going to be changed in the morning. However, the customer can get hot water by turning to winter mode and turning the rads pot. full on. The flow pipe will then get red hot and the boiler cuts out leaving the return stone cold, but she gets nice hot water. I want to get the water sorted first but there certainly seems like a blockage in the heating circuit. Apparantly used to lock out a lot in winetr aswell but not recently. Money is on blocked dhw hx but the thing is all over the place.
Right.... no hot water, spindle not moving at all so diaphragm is going to be changed in the morning. However, the customer can get hot water by turning to winter mode and turning the rads pot. full on. The flow pipe will then get red hot and the boiler cuts out leaving the return stone cold, but she gets nice hot water. I want to get the water sorted first but there certainly seems like a blockage in the heating circuit. Apparantly used to lock out a lot in winetr aswell but not recently. Money is on blocked dhw hx but the thing is all over the place.
If she gets hot water in the heating mode then the diverter is moving most of the way and the plate is not badly blocked.
Sort out the diverter diaphragm and I expect it will be fine without any more problems.
Keep us posted.
Tony
Sort out the diverter diaphragm and I expect it will be fine without any more problems.
Keep us posted.
Tony
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Dont get that one Chris has suggested because its not the right one!
Go for the Savio Gaia 424 !
Its virtually the same as a Biasi 24S apart from the pressure transducer and the led display pcb.
Opening the pcb box is a little tricky and to be avoided if possible.
Tony
Go for the Savio Gaia 424 !
Its virtually the same as a Biasi 24S apart from the pressure transducer and the led display pcb.
Opening the pcb box is a little tricky and to be avoided if possible.
Tony
Agile said:
Now you say that!, the whole job was made particularly tricky aswell by the fact that the boiler was sideways on in a cupboard with the components I wanted on the far side and about a 1 foot gap to work in. However diaphragm replaced, hot water fine, ch rubbish....fires up for 20 secs water boils then off, flow pipe getting hot return cold. Was going to get the pump off to have a look at the impellor but cust. said no it can wait till the autumn, so I leave it slightly less broken with a ch circulation problem.
The CH will go off after 15 secs on the anticycling delay and come back on after four minutes. Normally you would disable the delay but you would not want to have to open the PCB box on the 424.
If the CH is not flowing properly then the diverter valve shaft is not fully returning. It may free itself with a bit of DHW usage. That sometimes sticks when the diverter has been failed for some while. Its due to dirt and its sometimes easier to treat with citric acid in situ. Can cause the glands to leak though!
To do the job properly you have to remove the gas valve and take out the right and left side of the diverter and clean and renew the glands and clean the internal bits particularly the shafts.
Tony
If the CH is not flowing properly then the diverter valve shaft is not fully returning. It may free itself with a bit of DHW usage. That sometimes sticks when the diverter has been failed for some while. Its due to dirt and its sometimes easier to treat with citric acid in situ. Can cause the glands to leak though!
To do the job properly you have to remove the gas valve and take out the right and left side of the diverter and clean and renew the glands and clean the internal bits particularly the shafts.
Tony
Cheers Tony, that all fits. Lets hope it sorts itself out before she needs heating. Seem to have been having quite a bit of grief with sticking spindles and stuff on these biasis lately. I did go into the control box as the power wouldnt come on when I put it back together....turns out I had fractionally brushed the power switch round slightly 
.How come the pressure sensing tubes are virtually impossible to remove yet leak at the slightest touch?.
.How come the pressure sensing tubes are virtually impossible to remove yet leak at the slightest touch?.I presume you mean the ones which operate the diaphragm?
You have to remove the clips first with your locking forceps. Then loosen the holding square screws and rock the housing as you pull jently on the pipes, one at a time.
Throughly dry and silicone both parts before reassembly. Check for leaks at both ends after repressurising.
Should never give a problem!
Tony
You have to remove the clips first with your locking forceps. Then loosen the holding square screws and rock the housing as you pull jently on the pipes, one at a time.
Throughly dry and silicone both parts before reassembly. Check for leaks at both ends after repressurising.
Should never give a problem!
Tony
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