Biasi Diverter Pin not coming out enough

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Hello All,

Biasi Combi 24C. When turning tap on the pin from the diverter valve pushes out but not enough to activate the microswitch.

The system is clean, no crud. Have changed the diaphragm. The pin otherwise is smooth and not restricted when pressing by hand. Have even changed the microswitch but still the same.

Any ideas? Do I need to change or refurbish the diverter itself?

Thanks.
 
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There isnt just a Biasi combi 24C, there will be another name, Riva, Advance, Riva plus I think there are other names too
 
Does it work when you put heating on, then hot water
 
Sorry, I meant 24S It's an M90.24S Garda.

The heating won't come on either.
 
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I think that you are confusing the diverter valve ,with the pump proving switch, or pressure proving switch, all different names for the same thing that tells the boiler that it has water in and the pump is working and moving water, your boiler has a DHW flow switch that activates the HW and does not have a diaphragm
 
Thanks for the reply. It definitely has a rubber diaphragm. :)
 
Thanks for the reply. It definitely has a rubber diaphragm. :)
Yes I know it has, but it is nothing to do with the DHW flow, it is not a diverter valve diaphragm, it is what I have already told you what it is, it tells the boiler that the pump is working and that the boiler has water in it, that diaphragm does not tell your boiler that you have run a DHW tap, the DHW flow switch does
 
As above you’re describing the pump the proving switch. You either have a weak pump or the internals of your boiler has some dirt in.

There’s not enough pressure to move the pin onto the micro switch
 
I understand how the diaphragm works I simply referred to it in that way because it is part of the body of the diverter. That is all. :)
 
Update to this. Removed the pump. However it was not as straightforward as the manual makes out. They tell you to remove the fork holding the outlet pipe going to the main exchanger and simply pull the pipe up and away. Except there is no give in pushing the pipe up. You have to use a lot of force to make it clear.

When it's come to replacing the pump that pipe is a PITA to push down fully back into the pump and place the locking fork back in. Eventually did it and now it leaks from that outlet. O-ring looks fine and I also made sure there was no crud in the opening. Also o-ring connection to brass group at back also weeping.

Any advice here? :) Should greasing the rings make them sit better? Can't even find new O-rings easily to buy.
 
Update to this. Removed the pump. However it was not as straightforward as the manual makes out. They tell you to remove the fork holding the outlet pipe going to the main exchanger and simply pull the pipe up and away. Except there is no give in pushing the pipe up. You have to use a lot of force to make it clear.

When it's come to replacing the pump that pipe is a PITA to push down fully back into the pump and place the locking fork back in. Eventually did it and now it leaks from that outlet. O-ring looks fine and I also made sure there was no crud in the opening. Also o-ring connection to brass group at back also weeping.

Any advice here? :) Should greasing the rings make them sit better? Can't even find new O-rings easily to buy.

I’d have just changed the pump head.
 
I know, I wish I had just changed that. That came to mind later unfortunately.
 

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