biasi garda he
- Thread starter sheff1
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the devil is in the detail!!! if it is not showing any fault code flashing, i would look at the magnetic dhw flow switch. but your best bet is to phone biasi and they will give the number of your local service agent. the service agent will have all the parts needed and know the boiler inside and out.
I will firstly assume this boiler was working and has stopped.
If you take the cover off then if you look towards the right rear you should see a red LED illuminate when you turn on a tap.
If no red LED then its most likely the magnetic shuttle is jammed ( a pig of a job to fix ) or rather unlikely the Hall effect detector has failed or its plug just come loose. Thats unless your "leak" wetted it!
If the LED is lit then the boiler is not responding to the call for DHW and the most likely cause would be a defective NTC sensor. That would give a fault code of a flashing centre red and steady right green.
Unless you are very competent you might be better just calling a service agent!
Tony
If you take the cover off then if you look towards the right rear you should see a red LED illuminate when you turn on a tap.
If no red LED then its most likely the magnetic shuttle is jammed ( a pig of a job to fix ) or rather unlikely the Hall effect detector has failed or its plug just come loose. Thats unless your "leak" wetted it!
If the LED is lit then the boiler is not responding to the call for DHW and the most likely cause would be a defective NTC sensor. That would give a fault code of a flashing centre red and steady right green.
Unless you are very competent you might be better just calling a service agent!
Tony
hi, Thanks for helping. The red light is not working on the magnetic dhw flow switch, but shows red when I place a magnet next to it, biasi says it could be the DHW heat exchanger that needs flushing? would I be better off just removing and cleaning the flow switch sensor parts or is it a really pig of a job?
Thanks again
Thanks again
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If you prefer to get nonsense suggestions from the manufacturer that thats obviously your preferred choice.
You seem to doubt my abilities to help you!
Surely you can work out in your mind that if dhw flows through the boiler then the plate HE is not blocked and the red light should illuminate?
For fun you can detach the sensor and place your magnet until it illuminates and then you can get hot water!!! That will be a useful test to ensure you have not done anything else in your house to upset the boilers function.
Assuming yours is the older black sensor then removing the magnetic shuttle to clean it requires removing the gas valve and thats a CORGI job.
Tony
You seem to doubt my abilities to help you!
Surely you can work out in your mind that if dhw flows through the boiler then the plate HE is not blocked and the red light should illuminate?
For fun you can detach the sensor and place your magnet until it illuminates and then you can get hot water!!! That will be a useful test to ensure you have not done anything else in your house to upset the boilers function.
Assuming yours is the older black sensor then removing the magnetic shuttle to clean it requires removing the gas valve and thats a CORGI job.
Tony
Thanks Tony, Yes it is a black sensor (your good and you know it) I did place a magnet at it's side and the water was heating but before it could come through hot, the temp exceeded 65 and it cut out.
Will get the yellow pages out now.
Thanks again
Will get the yellow pages out now.
Thanks again
I did not know which type you had as the later sensors are clear and the shuttle is vertical and different!!!
Turn off the blue tap on the fourth pipe and see if ALL water stops flowing from the hot taps.
It might still be a plumbing problem in your house and nothing to do with your boiler.
Tony
Turn off the blue tap on the fourth pipe and see if ALL water stops flowing from the hot taps.
It might still be a plumbing problem in your house and nothing to do with your boiler.
Tony
just double checked! The hot pipe is straight to the kitchen sink with a T junction off to the washer. this is how it was before. and it is where the leak was from originally.
I haven't done anything different except put a stop tap there incase it happens again
now im getting worried cos i know ive done somat wrong
I haven't done anything different except put a stop tap there incase it happens again
now im getting worried cos i know ive done somat wrong
If water comes out of the hot tap with blue tap under boiler off then there is a crossover from cold to hot somewhere in the house.
Common places are washing machine connections, dishwasher connections, faulty mixer taps and mixer showers.
Can you suggest where the crossover is?
Its also odd that the water only comes out of the kitchen hot tap and not the bathroom hot taps! Can you suggest why?
Tony
Common places are washing machine connections, dishwasher connections, faulty mixer taps and mixer showers.
Can you suggest where the crossover is?
Its also odd that the water only comes out of the kitchen hot tap and not the bathroom hot taps! Can you suggest why?
Tony
not got a clue! was working ok before the leak. crossover wont be on mixer taps as water only exits there? turned off pipes to washer. and only cold feed to dishwasher.
H.E gets hot, as do pipes in the boiler, but not DHW pipe from the boiler. I think indicating a blockage? (ok im not a plumber but my friend is polish?)
Time for yellow pages me thinks
Thanks for trying
H.E gets hot, as do pipes in the boiler, but not DHW pipe from the boiler. I think indicating a blockage? (ok im not a plumber but my friend is polish?)
Time for yellow pages me thinks
Thanks for trying
IMHO they know f**k all about plumbing and are by and large charlatans.
Did he repair the leak? As Tony said the cold is passing to the hot, this is often within a faulty mixer tap or shower valve (despite the taps being turned off).
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