Biasi Problem For Young Newbie DIYer

[pjdelaney1]

hi.
after some advice please.

i have had a biasi boiler installed in my home. a M96 28SM/B2 model. we are having problems with it running from the thermostat.

it worked for 2 or 3 weeks, automatically turning itself on and off, after which there was lots of clicking coming from the boiler when it attempted to turn itself on, but it did not turn on.

Now when we turn thermostat up, it will fire the boiler up, but it will not turn itself off, so when we turn the thermostat down, it stays off and does not ignite itself to maintain a constant temperature!?

If i disconnect a wire off of the piece that clicks, the thermostat will work properly, but then the boiler will not fire up for any hot water.

I hope that you have some idea of something i can try.
Help would be appreciated greatly.

Many thanks.

 

[ChrisR]

Did you install it?
If so call the manufacturer
If not, call the installer!

I don't think

disconnect a wire off of the piece that clicks

is in my manual...

 

[pjdelaney1]

Did you install it?
If so call the manufacturer
If not, call the installer!

I don't think

disconnect a wire off of the piece that clicks

is in my manual...

then allow me to add, and perhaps it may help.

it was installed by a family member, corgi registered, but due to a death in the family, a lot of people have stopped talking, so i dont think that he would help. anyway.

the box that 'clicks' has three wires to it, a blue, a brown and a black. if any of these are removed the heating works properly off of the thermostat, that i put on myself - due to the falling out. but if any of these are removed, the hot water does not work.

i am no genius with a multimeter, but asper the instructions of the thermostat (drayton) i wired to terminals one and three.

i was hoping it might be something blocked or partially blocked that miht not be letting the heating come on properly. as this is a new system in an old house there might be a build up of slurrys from the old pipes even tho it had a cleaner running in it for a couple of days.

Any more ideas would be of help! Or a little wit to bring a smile to my face!

 

[ChrisR]

This boiler's how old?
Can you look in the manual (on their website if you don't have it) and tell us what the cllicky box is. Yes we could look it up but it's your boiler!

Sorry about the family troubles. We've all been there, and it is horrible sometimes.

 

[paulw01]

I think he means the diverter valve actuator which is located inside the boiler on the left hand side ?

 

[superdupergasman]

Why not check the polarity on the mains supply to the boiler as it can cause weird faults. after this I would then link out the thermostat at the connections inside the boiler using a simple short piece of wire....after all, the thermosat is a simple switch...if it works after this that rules out the boiler and points to a faulty room stat or dodgy wiring!

you sould have a neutral and common from the boiler to the stat and then a call for heat back to the boiler from the stat.

Happy fixing!

 

[pjdelaney1]

Why not check the polarity on the mains supply to the boiler as it can cause weird faults. after this I would then link out the thermostat at the connections inside the boiler using a simple short piece of wire....after all, the thermosat is a simple switch...if it works after this that rules out the boiler and points to a faulty room stat or dodgy wiring!

you sould have a neutral and common from the boiler to the stat and then a call for heat back to the boiler from the stat.

Happy fixing!

very sorry. think i understand.

yes the box is in the left hand side, right in the top of the boiler.

i would expect any wiring to the boiler to be right as this was done by an electrician, an electrician that rewired the whole house.

the blue and brown wires had a loop wire in before i installed the thermostat, but this kept the boiler on constantly.

Do you think that its worth trying a new thermostat, as it worked for a couple of weeks i wouldnt expect it to be wiring between the boiler and the thermostat either! would you?

really appreciate everyones help so far.

 

[clf-gas]

Is the room thermostat an RF model (wireless)

 

[pjdelaney1]

no its wired. 2 core. the thermostat has four terminals 'L,3,2 and N'. I took the brown wire to the 'L' and the blue wire to '2'. The thermostat is a 'drayton combi stat'. inside there are instructions for a mulitmeter reading.

terminal L&3 AC 0.6 - 6A
terminal L&2 AC 0.1 - 0.6A
terminal L&3&N 2A MAX

i bought a mulitmeter that had A 200m only and got a reading of 1.3 which i believe is equivalent to 0.26A and i therefore put the wires to L & 2 i.e 0.1 - 0.6A

 

[clf-gas]

OK what make and model of stat is it.

At this point I would disconnect the stat and put in a link as it appears its the stat not the actuator to the DV.
On the actuator is the wiring Brown on one (left)
Blue on two (middle)
Black on three (right).

 

[Agile]

you sould have a neutral and common from the boiler to the stat and then a call for heat back to the boiler from the stat.
Happy fixing!

Yet again you are showing your lack of detailed knowledge, Zimmers!

That boiler needs a two wire connection and luckily thats what he has got!

It almost sounds as if the boiler is not responding to a call for CH but its difficult to be too sure.

If it was legitimately installed and the Benchmark was completed and CORGI issued their blue Certificate then call Biasi. However if it was an illegal install and he works for an employer and was working on the side then you might be better off complaining to CORGI about his work!

Tony

 

[superdupergasman]

[/quote]

Yet again you are showing your lack of detailed knowledge, Zimmers!

Tony[/quote]

depends if you have a 2 or 3 wire room stat???? or even a zero volt one??

 

[Agile]

If you worked in the industry and took heed of what you did then you would know that the Drayton Combistat is specifically designed for two wire systems!

Why dont you register for the Combustion chamber for RGIs?

We must assume that you are some kind of trainee who has yet to learn gas safety !

Whats your CORGI card number?

Tony

 

[wishiwascorgi]

Yet again you are showing your lack of detailed knowledge, Zimmers! (No denying)

Tony[/quote]

depends if you have a 2 or 3 wire room stat???? or even a zero volt one??[/quote]

So tony you was right it is Zimmers.

Time for a new id mate.

Blue peter badge for the next member to bust zimmers.

 

[wishiwascorgi]

Try this PJ create a loop between 1 & 3 on the external controls terminal block and use the boiler controls to check if each is working independently and together. If one or both do not work with maximum settings on then I want you to try this before replacing the stat.

Next take off the clicky bit as you call it, I call it a switch, it should be transparent just in front of the divertor valve You should see a black thin strip of metal inside it. When you have taken it off the dv, use a small allan key and insert that into the plastic hole and depress the metal strip down and hold. Turn the boiler on full on ch & dhw and if it fires up on ch turn that stat off and run some hot water. If that works also, you could have a blockage in the divertor valve, the diaphram is on its last legs or you need a new dv.

Try it and lets us know if that has worked.