Bit of help with my diverter valve

[neilfd3s]

Hi,

I have recently moved home and the new house has a y plan system with a potterton boiler, top tank and hot water tank in the airing cupboard. everything was rosy until one day the radiators were not heating but hot water is fine. I researched and this led me to the 3 pos diverter valve which i put into mid point which then heated both the radiators and the water.

Being an electrician anyway i have tested everything else in the circuit anyway just to diminish any doubt of anything else being at fault and the room stat it switching fine but the diverter itself is also moving position as it should. Now i have read that each position on the valve is switched by a microswitch which i have tested in the diverter valve jb ( 240v on grey wire(calling heat) but nothing on orange wire (fire boiler and pump)).

I have three options as i have a spare valve, my original is a british gas BGMVSP-23 and the spare is a honeywell 4073 so are these interchangable?

1) change just the actuator
2) strip the actuator and change the micro switch
3) change the whole bleeding thing

The BGMVSP-23 actuator clips off from the valve head but the honeywell is held with screws again will the honeywell screw into the original valve head?

If not what do i need to do to change the whole valve assy ( i dont really want to do this as only the actuator microswitches are at fault) im guessing switch of the programmer unit at the fused spur then isolate the valves using the ball valve on the hw/ch/and supply from the boiler sides, then just replace it and reverse the process. I guess ill bleed the radiators after too to remove any air caused by the valve replacement.

Any help, guidance or advice is greatly received.

Thanks

Neil

 

[petit_pablo]

The 2 valve heads are not compatible. To replace the BG one use a ACL/drayton head or change the whole valve for a honeywell unit

 

[neilfd3s]

The 2 valve heads are not compatible. To replace the BG one use a ACL/drayton head or change the whole valve for a honeywell unit

Can i change the whole unit by just turning off the programmer and isolating the three ball balves then, or do i have to drain the whole system?

Thanks for the super-swift response btw

 

[stevefixitall]

like petite sed change the head with drayton/acl head, isolate power wiring is just the same, so instead of going into main junction box fit a new small 5-8 wire junction box cut, strip wiring and happy days. done it loads a times. quicker than changing whole valve.
easy for a sparky like u min!!!
how does the spindle on the valve move sticky/stiff or freely btw.

 

[marcr]

I wouldn't drain down for this unless you think the valve body is in need of changing too!! Check the spindle as advised. 9 out of 10 times it will be ok.

Get a new Iflo/Drayton actuator and swap in no time, no hassle.

 

[neilfd3s]

The spindle is free as a bird and the jb is a small 8 wire exchange local to the 3port.

Thanks guys ill just get the drayton ma1 and replace it.

btw, do these microswitches go regular?

 

[neilfd3s]

Just ordered a Drayton Ma1 679-3 is this the correct one for a direct swap?