Block door with studwork?

[Jimbo]

Hi,

I've blocked up a doorway using studwork and plasterboard. The doorframe remains (stripped of architrave etc.) and lies about 1mm below the existing plaster around the frame. The plasterboard I've put in lies another 1-2mm below this.

My plan is to chisel off the existing paintwork for about 6" around the doorframe, then score both the existing plaster and the doorframe. I was then planning to put jointing tape on the plasterboard joints and also across the joints between plasterboard and doorframe, then use jointing compound to hide the gaps and the drywall screws, and also use it to key the whole thing in to the existing plaster.

I'm not a plasterer so want to avoid trying to skim the whole thing. Is the approach I've laid out above okay? Any tips? To be honest I'm not entirely clear on the difference between jointing compound and plaster...

Thanks
J

 

[noseall]

Why did you not remove the casing and do the job properly? There is nothing to be gained by leaving the casing in place, just more work.

 

[Jimbo]

The room was originally two rooms, now been knocked into one. At some point we might want to convert it back to two rooms, so it makes sense to leave the casing in place, then all I have to do is replace the architrave to re-establish the door.

Whether it's the best approach or not, I just wanted to know whether, things being as they are, anyone had any advice.

Thanks
J

 

[Richard C]

• The best way of blocking up an old door is to – block(work) it up, base plaster/render out to the surrounding wall, tape the joins & then skim the whole wall.

• The 2nd-best option is to remove the plaster back to block around 300mm all around the door opening, stud out the opening & fix the PB to the stud & surrounding wall, plaster out to the surrounding wall, tape the joins & then skim the whole wall.

• The 3rd –best option is to do as you propose; stud out the opening, fix the PB, tape the joins & try to skim & blend it in.

You can achieve good results but, to be honest, it will always be visible to those that are looking! The biggest disadvantage is that the original door opening may crack around the join; this will always be a very strong possibility due to the different expansion rates between the block wall & the timber stud/plasterboard partition; hence the reason for the 2nd option.

Personally I would only ever do it 1 or 2 to be reasonably sure of success but if you think you may want to convert it back at some point then, I guess, you could live with it but you DEFINITELY need to loose the door lining. Plaster will never stick to it; at best you’ll be left with 2 tramline cracks around the original opening but, at worst, the plaster will in all probability fall off the wood & you’ll be left with a trench!

Not sure what you mean by “jointing compound”?

 

[noseall]

At some point we might want to convert it back to two rooms, so it makes sense to leave the casing in place,

The casing will be tatty and need repairing should you wish to re-instate.

There is nowt to be gained. It is a common diy mistake to leave the casing intact. We usually end up having to chisel away the leading edge of the casing both sides in order to achieve a crack free finish to the plaster.

'Tis better to remove the casing then fix a new one should you wish to do so. They are not particularly expensive or difficult to fix.

 

[stuart45]

Not sure what you mean by “jointing compound”?

I think he means the compound used in dry lining to fix the tape to the joints and then over the joint to feather it out, instead of skimming the lot.

 

[Richard C]

I think he means the compound used in dry lining to fix the tape to the joints and then over the joint to feather it out, instead of skimming the lot.

I've only ever use self adhesive fibreglass reinforcing tape & I thought Easyfill was generally used to fill out the joins on taper edge boards; I’ve never used it as I always plaster over studwork.

 

[Jimbo]

Thanks for all the advice. Spent a few hours today chiselling the door casing flush and fitting new wallboard.

Going to try and skim the door (what could possibly go wrong...? ) - Is there any benefit to taping the joints between the plasterboard and the existing plaster (Well, render - I've chipped back the plaster to get a better key and smoother join)?

 

[Richard C]

Is there any benefit to taping the joints between the plasterboard and the existing plaster (Well, render - I've chipped back the plaster to get a better key and smoother join)?

I can promise you 100% that if you don’t tape it, it will DEFINITELY crack; chip the plaster back off the base render so you can get a full width of tape in there; or even 2 or 3 widths, overlapped. But as I said in my previous post, there is still a strong chance it will crack due to the different expansion & contraction rates between the block wall & the new stud & plaster board.

 

[Jimbo]

Hopefully any cracking will be largely hidden. On one side I'm planning a floor-to-ceiling shelving unit, and on the other side will be our bed... with a judiciously-placed picture or something above the headboard...

It would have been nice to do a 100% proper job, but I have neither the skill, money or time. Baby's arriving soon and I'm under strict instructions to get this done asap!!!

Thanks to everyone for their advice.

J

 

[noseall]

Baby's arriving soon and I'm under strict instructions to get this done asap!!!

Why do we (blokes) always leave till she is about to pop before getting the job/s done.

 

[Jimbo]

I think we must just love the adrenalin rush!