Blocking up internal window between rooms - brick or batten?

[Cellophaneskies]

Hi all

I have a 1.5 x 1m approx ‘window’ in the wall beyween my living room and kitchen. I would like this blocked up and plastered so both sides are just a finished wall. Priority to me is soundproofing between the two rooms.

I’m not sure whether the best approach is bricking it up or having a carpenter install battens and plasterboard. Brick is my instinct as best but I’m not sure if this would require ‘toothing in’ for stability, or would metal ties be adequate? Don’t want the blocked up section just falling out.

On the flip side, with battens and plasterboard, could this be subject to temperature changes? Wood expending and shrinking that could cause player cracks.

Looking for some opinions, suggestions and advice. I’d be looking for a tradesman to do this, I wouldn’t be doing it myself.

Thanks

 

[noseall]

Hi all

I have a 1.5 x 1m approx ‘window’ in the wall beyween my living room and kitchen. I would like this blocked up and plastered so both sides are just a finished wall. Priority to me is soundproofing between the two rooms.

I’m not sure whether the best approach is bricking it up or having a carpenter install battens and plasterboard. Brick is my instinct as best but I’m not sure if this would require ‘toothing in’ for stability, or would metal ties be adequate? Don’t want the blocked up section just falling out.

On the flip side, with battens and plasterboard, could this be subject to temperature changes? Wood expending and shrinking that could cause player cracks.

Looking for some opinions, suggestions and advice. I’d be looking for a tradesman to do this, I wouldn’t be doing it myself.

Thanks

For best soundproofing, use dense materials, i.e. 7n blocks etc. No need to tooth out. Either use drill and fix frame ties or whack in some chunky 4" or 5" galv nails into available bed joints.

 

[Cellophaneskies]

For best soundproofing, use dense materials, i.e. 7n blocks etc. No need to tooth out. Either use drill and fix frame ties or whack in some chunky 4" or 5" galv nails into available bed joints.

Thanks a lot. Thats reassuring then, sounds like a better choice compared to batten etc to ensure soundproof, especially if don’t have to churn about the existing wall.

Is this the sort of thing any bricklayer would be fine doing? Or should i be investigating using someone different? Thinking in structural terms- this isn’t a big modification that would need notifying etc?

Thanks

 

[noseall]

Thanks a lot. Thats reassuring then, sounds like a better choice compared to batten etc to ensure soundproof, especially if don’t have to churn about the existing wall.

Is this the sort of thing any bricklayer would be fine doing? Or should i be investigating using someone different? Thinking in structural terms- this isn’t a big modification that would need notifying etc?

Thanks

My niece could do it.

 

[RrogerD]

I'd simply Batten and plasterboard filling the void with rockwool. Quickest, easiest and most DIYable

 

[Koolpc]

I'd simply Batten and plasterboard filling the void with rockwool. Quickest, easiest and most DIYable

This is what my friend did. He aint no tradesman but, he did a good job. That was about 2 years ago i believe.

He took out a big window between a room and a conservatory as he wanted to make the room into a bedroom. It was a bungalow. The conservatory already had access from the kitchen.

He did all the work himself right up to the plastering, of which, he brought in a plasterer to do that.

You would never know that there used to be a window there!

 

[robinbanks]

I'd simply Batten and plasterboard filling the void with rockwool. Quickest, easiest and most DIYable

Yeah but far lower level of sound reduction with that approach

Brickwork is DIYable, and filling in a hole with sides all round the easiest of all: small nail into the existing beds, bit of string for a line to keep straight, mortar mixed in a bucket at 5 sand, 1 cement, touch of plasticiser (fairy liquid would work) and just enough water to make it like soft serve ice cream
Plastering the end result up less DIyable if one wants a good finish but that shouldn't be too expensive, and the plasterboard approach would still need finishing too; depends how particular the owner is, and whether they're willing to hang a big picture over any rough spots they may create. Everyone has their levels of what is acceptable

 

[noseall]

I'd simply Batten and plasterboard filling the void with rockwool. Quickest, easiest and most DIYable

Priority to me is soundproofing

Ordinarily we would stud and board it. Filling out with 7n blocks is easy enough and solid.

If we do stud, we like to carry the boards across and onto the masonry. Usually this means double boarding, whereby you fix one plasterboard to the studs, then dab a thinner (9.5mm board) across what you've just done and onto the masonry by a few inches. It prevents differential cracking and aids noise reduction.
If the client is fitting a rad or kitchen units to the wall, we'll fill out between the studs with ply too.

 

[Cellophaneskies]

Thanks all. Still getting a lot of conflicting opinions, ir seems everyone has a different approach depending on what they deem acceptable!

Im going to get some quotes for brickwork and then go from there I think, with the mindset that this would be best for soundproofing- or at the very least, restore it to its original state - brick!

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Quotes? You do know this is a DIY forum!

It all depends what's below. We had a bricked up doorway that had been filled in by the previous owners. They'd bricked up on top of joists and floorboards! I think the original door frame threshold was still there too. Absolute cowboy job, definitely not recommended. The brick foundation was below it all too, but they couldn't be bothered to cut down to it.

If you have a solid foundation below then it would be a terrible shame to use plasterboard and fresh air. You will end up listening to the washing machine and dishwasher in the lounge and just wishing you hadn't been such a cheapskate.

Just drill into the surrounding masonry and put screw in ties every course or two. You don't need to align with the courses, just drill and screw into whatever happens to align with your courses.

Trades will recommend the plasterboard and timber option, as it gets the job done quickly and they don't live there.

Buy some bricks, ready-mixed mortar, a bucket and a trowel. You could do it yourself in less time than you'd spend getting quotes, making tea and otherwise fannying about.

 

[Cellophaneskies]

Quotes? You do know this is a DIY forum!

It all depends what's below. We had a bricked up doorway that had been filled in by the previous owners. They'd bricked up on top of joists and floorboards! I think the original door frame threshold was still there too. Absolute cowboy job, definitely not recommended. The brick foundation was below it all too, but they couldn't be bothered to cut down to it.

If you have a solid foundation below then it would be a terrible shame to use plasterboard and fresh air. You will end up listening to the washing machine and dishwasher in the lounge and just wishing you hadn't been such a cheapskate.

Just drill into the surrounding masonry and put screw in ties every course or two. You don't need to align with the courses, just drill and screw into whatever happens to align with your courses.

Trades will recommend the plasterboard and timber option, as it gets the job done quickly and they don't live there.

Buy some bricks, ready-mixed mortar, a bucket and a trowel. You could do it yourself in less time than you'd spend getting quotes, making tea and otherwise fannying about.

Haha yes I realise this, it means you’re all very very helpful!

I have a punt at most DIY things but as this is very visible I want it done professionally. I’ve tried before on a small scale and I was mega bad! Also not sure if I could mess something up- cause structural issues.
It’s defo sat on concrete floor!
Thanks!

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Ideally you shouldn't depend on a concrete floor to build a wall on, as it's probably 4" of concrete over not very much often including some soil.

But it's very likely that the footing will continue across the doorway beneath it, and hopefully there's something firm between it and the concrete floor. The infilled brick or block won't weigh much more than a person standing there anyway, plus it should be well tied into the walls.

Personally, I wouldn't see bricking up a doorway as a big deal. Just ensure it's aligned with the adjoining walls and keep the courses reasonably level.

The more skilled part is plastering over the block or brick. Getting a nice smooth blend into the surrounding area takes experience.

If you really insist on sitting in your armchair while someone else does it all then it might be better asking a plasterer rather than a bricklayer or general builder, as you want the best part to be the finish. You don't want immaculate brickwork with bumpy plaster blathered over and big lips where it meets the edges. I'd hope that a plasterer would be able to do the bricking up, or would know someone who can.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Oh, just saw it's a window not a door. Duh! So don't worry at all about footings. The same applies to the bricking up and plastering though.

 

[Cellophaneskies]

Oh, just saw it's a window not a door. Duh! So don't worry at all about footings. The same applies to the bricking up and plastering though.

Thanks for the advice, I’ll go from there. Soundproofing really is the biggest thing I want to achieve so it’s sounding like brickwork is the way.

I was thinking having someone brick it up and then a separate plasterer to finish.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

I'd just ask a plasterer. Either they'll just do it or they'll know someone who can.

If you split it into two jobs then your plasterer might complain if the brickwork isn't to their liking.