BLOCKWORK layout FOR EXTENSION

[STORYTELLER]

Hi,

New here! Not an expert so looking for pointer(s).

I have the layout as shown and unsure how to best set blocks for minimum cuts etc... but dont want to go moving walls, windows and piers and changing window sizes more than a few cm as theres reasons..

I have attempted, but unclear about when and how much I can lay vertical block ends out of alignment. My builder is now (after quote) giving me lots of 'ooh will cost you with all the cutting!'

I've tried using blocks with single cuts (i.e B1+B2) and carrying on but lintels add a complication too.... as I understand 100mm needed bearing AND MUST be on complete block.... and SE specified 300 overlap for box section/plate above bifold opening... And if full block needed below lintel, i've need to re-jig and first course corner would end up being a half block... OK?

any input (without too much laughing... I was doing it at 3am to meet builder today who didn't turn up) much appreciated.

I'm also assuming first course starting at height of my existing house floor.... at least that's what brickie said...

Mo

 

[noseall]

Hi,

New here! Not an expert so looking for pointer(s).

I have the layout as shown and unsure how to best set blocks for minimum cuts etc... but dont want to go moving walls, windows and piers and changing window sizes more than a few cm as theres reasons..

I have attempted, but unclear about when and how much I can lay vertical block ends out of alignment. My builder is now (after quote) giving me lots of 'ooh will cost you with all the cutting!'

I've tried using blocks with single cuts (i.e B1+B2) and carrying on but lintels add a complication too.... as I understand 100mm needed bearing AND MUST be on complete block.... and SE specified 300 overlap for box section/plate above bifold opening... And if full block needed below lintel, i've need to re-jig and first course corner would end up being a half block... OK?

any input (without too much laughing... I was doing it at 3am to meet builder today who didn't turn up) much appreciated.

I'm also assuming first course starting at height of my existing house floor.... at least that's what brickie said...

Mo

I don't think I've ever approached a job where I'm planning how and where blocks are laid. I'm not surprised your brickie has fled, sorry.

 

[mrrusty]

I don't think I've ever approached a job where I'm planning how and where blocks are laid

HaHa I did! I know I'm DIY but I CADed it with 10mm perps to use whole blocks and 1/2 blocks as far as possible when I built our garage....I also used the CAD to work out how many I needed It's actually very easy because you just repeat copy - just a few button presses to get the whole lot, then you knock out the windows and doors.

 

[STORYTELLER]

I don't think I've ever approached a job where I'm planning how and where blocks are laid. I'm not surprised your brickie has fled, sorry.

I think you have completely missed the point and misunderstood the actual situation. I am doing this BECAUSE the builder (who hasn't fled!) is now AFTER quote saying things will cost more due to more cutting to suit position of openings. Hence me asking for Advice as to most efficient layout.

 

[cdbe]

You don't seem to have bonded your corners. Your builder sounds like a nutter.

 

[STORYTELLER]

You don't seem to have bonded your corners. Your builder sounds like a nutter

not a nutter.... just not organised. When you say corners - which ones do you mean?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

HaHa I did! I know I'm DIY but I CADed it with 10mm perps to use whole blocks and 1/2 blocks as far as possible when I built our garage....I also used the CAD to work out how many I needed It's actually very easy because you just repeat copy - just a few button presses to get the whole lot, then you knock out the windows and doors.

It is easy however the designer should set it out to block dimensions if money is so blinking tight that the builder is complaining of having to cut some blocks down eg make those funky 500W openings either 460 or 680 and set them a block dimension apart. Otherwise that's the price to pay for something non standard.

 

[Notch7]

I am doing this BECAUSE the builder (who hasn't fled!) is now AFTER quote saying things will cost more due to more cutting to suit position of openings

That’s bolox
I reckon the builder has quoted and is now trying to fleece you for more money.

I’ve used brickies for orangeries for years, they’ve never asked about dimensions to suit bond.

 

[Notch7]

not a nutter.... just not organised. When you say corners - which ones do you mean?

You haven’t allowed for the 100mm end of block on the left or right of the long elevation drawing.

 

[^woody^]

Why are there a load of random cut blocks?

I don't know (nor would want to) any bricklayer who charges more for more cuts. It takes 10 seconds to cut a concrete block, a bit longer to saw an aerated bock. And if he's got any sense, he'll cut all the blocks first.