Blue Switchmaster 3 port valves

[Trundles Tricks]

Hi guys

Anyone got the wiring changes to hand when changing these for a Honeywell 3 port.

I've done hundreds in the past but not for a while and don't fancy having to plough through tracing all the wires in the junction box if someone has the handy wiring change guide to hand.

Thanks in advance.

 

[jameshayes]

switch master. honeywell.
link red & orange... orange
yellow... white
white... grey
neutral blue... blue
earth... earth

 

[namsag]

Switchmaster yellow honeywell white
switchmaster white honeywell grey
switchmaster red and orange link together honeywell orange


Beat me

 

[Trundles Tricks]

Diolch lads

Saves me wasting time sorting through the spaghetti in the box tomorrow.

 

[Ollie9]

Can anyone advise whether it is possible to disconnect the Blue Box and still use the system, stuck on water or C/H? Until I get a new valve.

Also, which is the most preferred replacement?

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Ollie9

 

[doitall]

Yes, but you will need to put power on the pump and boiler, and you would loose all controls, other than the boiler stat.

 

[Ollie9]

Thanks doitall,

Is it just a case of disconnecting the wires and leaving the blue box in situ until I get a replacement Honeywell?

Or do I remive completely and wind the valve manually to the water setting by hand?

 

[doitall]

You should be able to lock the valve open manually if you disconnect the wire, making a note of where they came from.

Then you will need a 240v supply to the boiler and pump.

 

[Ollie9]

Ok, thank you, will give it a go tomorrow. There should be juice to the boiler, pump etc as the Timer is all connected through a junction box.

I have just ordered a Honeywell V4073A so will swap it in a few days, subject to the flippin' Post Office strike!

Can this be done by turning the wtaer off or do I have to drain the system?

 

[doitall]

You need to drain down to do it safely.

 

[Ollie9]

I've taken off teh Switchmaster Valve, ordered a new Honeywell. Replaced fuses and voila all seems ok on face-value. BUT NO!

It is all lit-up, timer works etc, but nothing is firing. Do I need to put a link-in somewhere now that the motor has been removed from the valve?

It seems like something is not swithcing on.

Please help! We are cold and need a bath!

 

[doitall]

I've taken off teh Switchmaster Valve, ordered a new Honeywell. Replaced fuses and voila all seems ok on face-value. BUT NO!

It is all lit-up, timer works etc, but nothing is firing. Do I need to put a link-in somewhere now that the motor has been removed from the valve?

It seems like something is not swithcing on.

Please help! We are cold and need a bath!

What did I say above.

Find out what the boiler and pump wires connect too, and put a link in to a 240v supply

 

[Ollie9]

I worked out that the Red and Orange from the Sw/Master needed to link so linked the terminals that they came from, all seems ok now!

Thanks for your help.

 

[Ollie9]

oh dear, someone please help, I thought that I had this problem sorted, but when I switched the heating on for the first time it won't work, I think it may be wired incorrectly as when heating comes on throiugh timer the pipe from the valve to the heating goes cold! But when the water is working ok the same pipe is hot but the heating still doesn't work!!

HELP!!!!