Boiler isolator on kitchen grid switch

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Hi everyone. Thi sis my first post here. Dont be too hard on me please!!!

So, We are renovating our kitchen and the splashbacks are fancy ceramic ones matching the worktop.

To minimise the visual impact, I was wondering if locating the boiler isolator on the grid switch panel with a double pole like this one Varilight boiler Grid Switch will be compliant.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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Just the kitchen boiler (in cabinet) for the central heating. The inmersion tank is upstairs with a separate isolator.
 
Just the kitchen boiler (in cabinet) for the central heating.
Ok, then there is likely to be a fuse as well which you will have to replace and the central heating might be on a different circuit than the other appliances in the grid switch.

Instead of incorporating the CH switch in the grid, why not just move the existing switch to somewhere inconspicuous - in cabinet? - as you could also do with the grid switches.
 
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Ok, then there is likely to be a fuse as well which you will have to replace and the central heating might be on a different circuit than the other appliances in the grid switch.

Instead of incorporating the CH switch in the grid, why not just move the existing switch to somewhere inconspicuous - in cabinet? - as you could also do with the grid switches.

Those are good points. I planned to move the existing boiler line circuit to the grid for this only switch. I can add a fuse on the grid also.

It is allowed to move the grid switch panel inside a cabinet? That would be "easily" doable.

The issue with hiding the boiler switch inside the boiler cabinet is that the space is very limited.
 

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Those are good points. I planned to move the existing boiler line circuit to the grid for this only switch. I can add a fuse on the grid also.
Ok.

It is allowed to move the grid switch panel inside a cabinet? That would be "easily" doable.
Yes, if installed securely.
The switches for appliances are not a requirement, therefore there are no instructions regarding their location - apart from common sense.

There should be an isolation switch for the whole central heating system, though.

The issue with hiding the boiler switch inside the boiler cabinet is that the space is very limited.
In the adjacent cupboard?
 
I can add a fuse on the grid also.
The boiler, an attached devices, like the programmer, thermostat, etc, must be protected by a fuse. Usually 3amp.
The switch must be double pole, not a single pole "as used in lighting circuits.
It is allowed to move the grid switch panel inside a cabinet?
sure. I've never been a fan of grid switches, better off out of sight, IMO
 
The boiler, an attached devices, like the programmer, thermostat, etc, must be protected by a fuse. Usually 3amp.
The switch must be double pole, not a single pole "as used in lighting circuits.

sure. I've never been a fan of grid switches, better off out of sight, IMO

Yes, the grid switches I have selected are double pole.

And I agree with you, I dont see the poitn of them. But at this stage, it is easier to just move the grid panel than to rewire half the kitchen!!!

I'm originally Spanish, and after 13 years in UK, there are still things that I cannot fully get like some building methods and regulations, but we need to live with them, don't we?
 
If this is allowed by regulations, it will make my life so much easier. Please tell me it is....
Switches can go wherever you want them.

Grid switches or any switches for individual appliances are not required today and never were. The 'grid panel' affairs are mostly foolish choices made by kitchen designers for reasons known only by them.
 
I recently fitted a new kitchen, all switches and sockets for fixed appliances are inside cupboards, the only visible accessories are three double sockets and a three gang light switch
 
The boiler, an attached devices, like the programmer, thermostat, etc, must be protected by a fuse. Usually 3amp.
The switch must be double pole, not a single pole "as used in lighting circuits.

sure. I've never been a fan of grid switches, better off out of sight, IMO
Interesting point, as a gas engineer I was always taught 3 amp fuse (or in some cases lower) for a heating system, be it a fcu or plug top.

I had a discussion with our electrical supervisor regarding this, as I attended a job recently whereby the boiler didn't have a fused fcu, looked more like a fan isolator and MCB was rated at 16 amps, which was required for the type of programmer, but was told the fuse is there to protect the cable.

If a pump windings/housing had got water in (as they sometimes do) would blow the 3 amp fuse, would the same happed for a 16 amps MCB?
 
Interesting point, as a gas engineer I was always taught 3 amp fuse (or in some cases lower) for a heating system, be it a fcu or plug top.
Everyone says that.

I had a discussion with our electrical supervisor regarding this, as I attended a job recently whereby the boiler didn't have a fused fcu,
Boilers have internal fuses as do all appliances which need them.

looked more like a fan isolator and MCB was rated at 16 amps, which was required for the type of programmer,
16A programmer?

Do you mean it is rated at 16A to cope with an immersion heater current?

but was told the fuse is there to protect the cable.
That is true.

If a pump windings/housing had got water in (as they sometimes do) would blow the 3 amp fuse, would the same happed for a 16 amps MCB?
Would it blow the 3A fuse?

As above, the cable must be protected by the fuse.
If a 16A MCB then >16A cable.
 
16A programmer
Apologies, a Time switch. Here are the instructions, it's the Coronet 425 https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Horstmann/425.htm
Do you mean it is rated at 16A to cope with an immersion heater current?
Could be rated, but thought I read it somewhere that it must be rated at 16 A, but can't seem to find it now. I'm sure I've not dreamt it
Would it blow the 3A fuse?
Yes, I've had it many a time
 

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