bonding ply to foil insulated board - which adhesive?

[seneca]

Hi folks - I want to cover a hallway wall with ply instead of plasterboard, as it is always being crashed into and dented. I plan to cover and paint the plywood to get a decent finish. The wall an outside facing wall, so I put some foil covered celotex against it to insulate. I now want to bond 9mm ply to it, but nnot sure what to use? Instant grab adhesive, foam fxing adhesive, wood glue, pva? Any ideas?

Does the ply need sealing first, in order for the glue to bond to it? The foil is non porous, so will I get a good join? I do plan on putting a few frame fixers just to be doubly sure it doesn't come away through the wall. It will also keep the celotex behind the ply tight against the wall. ​

 

[^woody^]

as it is always being crashed into and dented

Get the council to install some speed bumps or other restrictions.

Anyway, are you using the non-dentable ply or do you just know a great french polisher?

I don't know which adhesive will last more than 5 minutes in this whacky situation.

 

[seneca]

Thanks Woody. Allow me to elucidate my whacky situation.

Kids waving toys about, prams squeezing through a tight door way and family carrying plastic crates with shopping, school books etc after a long day etc. etc.

The ply I had in mind was 9mm general purpose stuff (wbp type) - smooth surface, doesn't dent as easily as a plastered wall and can be painted, or papered, or even papered and painted. Ought to be tougher, look similar and now with insulation behind it.

 

[John D v2.0]

Glue wouldn't be alright you'd need mechanical fixings in any case. Insulation is not rated structurally except in compression sometimes. Either long fixings all the way through like a warm roof, or batten and insulate between.

 

[seneca]

As I mentioned, I plan to use frame fixers to hold both, tight against the wall. Just thought an adhesive would be useful to ensure an even bond between the ply and foil facing side.

 

[^woody^]

I'm not quite with the the plan to prevent knocks and dents by reducing the width of the hallway. And the fire-spread implications for the main route out, are something to think about.

I'd be handing out some clips for around their ears.

Seriously, re-think your plans. Otherwise, Gripfil will do.

 

[endecotp]

You can get “robust” plasterboard, e.g. https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/plasterboard-products/robust

 

[seneca]

My complaints to kids and everyone has worn me out. That and endless spot filling and painting that is always noticeable. We've got exit routes everywhere, so not a serious concern.

gripfill - solvent or unsolvented?

Anyone used masonry screws? I planned to put some frame fixers as insurance into the ply and also to hold the board tight aginst the adhesive to ensure a good contact. Apparently you can get flush screws that make less mess of the ply than a hammer fixing.

 

[CJRatch]

Sounds naff.

I've got 2 young kids and before they came along the house was perfect. Now there's chips, dents, finger marks everywhere we all go through it. Suck it up for now and once they're older do it again properly then.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Might get a better finish with MDF (plus it doesn't splinter if something does bang it)
Non solvent Gripfill if you must, i wouldn't bother, better to batten and countersink screw the panel on (use those nice countersink inserts if you want a really flush finish.
But think @CJRatch is right, leave it til the hell-beasts are tamed (or gone) then make it lovely

 

[endecotp]

Might get a better finish with MDF

And you can get fire-resistant MDF, which might mean the work complies with building regs.

 

[^woody^]

I'll ask the mods to move this to the parenting forum.

 

[JohnD]

You're making a wainscot.

I have an idea I've seen fake wood-panels somewhere. You could paint them if you wanted, in some dull, dark colour so marks aren't prominent

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panelling#Wainscot_panelling

 

[seneca]

Yes, I had originally thought of t&g cladding, that's around a metre high and has a moulding on the top. However, had celotex offcuts going spare and if arranged correctly and foamed together, would add a bit of insulation too. The ply should cover it all up and I've got a cheap fix that should last a few years - see how it goes.

Any views on the countersunk masonry screws? Unlike the concrete, window fixer types, these have more of a recessed screw head that seems far more discreet. Better than hammering a frame fixer (nylon plug and screw) through and having it splinter.