Bonnet hip tile sides

[Sonnypaul]

Morning all,

Sorry to post yet another question but I've been googling for a while and can't find the answer I'm looking for,

When tiling hips with bonnets, is it just a full tile either side to square it up?

I'll bed them first of course,

P.s. my last post about the mansard roof is solved , I found a site called block layer and just used the rise and run button to find my working "triangle".

Regards sonny

 

[noseall]

Morning all,

Sorry to post yet another question but I've been googling for a while and can't find the answer I'm looking for,

When tiling hips with bonnets, is it just a full tile either side to square it up?

I'll bed them first of course,

Kind of yes.
Hips are quirky, especially getting started at the eaves. The one thing you must always adhere to is that the hip tile should always be central on the hip rafter and do not be tempeted to shove it one way or t'uther to try and make it suit the neighbouring tile.

Initially the fascia kick will distort the lie of the hip until you get higher. This is normal.

You need to set out full tiles with a dry run laying them each side of the hip. The hip bottom corners must line up with bottom edges of the adjacent elevation roof tiles as well as being positioned centrally on the hip blade. We drop a screw into the hip to temporarily hold it in place.

You fiddle and fuss until everything lines up. Often you need to trim the edge of each tile either side of the hip to allow the tile to sit snug against the hip edges. Don't be tempted to try and wangle the tile to suit. Let the tile sit square on the batten and trim it into the hip if necessary. Each hip course should give you half bond as you go up the roof.

Once you have set out the starter course you can then half bond the eaves below. Obviously you need to mark off the half nick of the full tiles above in order to start you eaves below, once you have removed your dry run trial tiles.

Take all your stuff off the roof and start your eaves on the mark you pencilled, which will give you your half bond below the starter course. Your eaves will need to finish at a mitred cut. There is no hip tile on the eaves.

We then set the first hip on a mortar bed, set the tiles (trimmed if necessary) either side of the hip, then fix the hip with a 100mm screw, once we are happy that the hip tile edges or corners are level with the tile bottom each side and that the hip tile is central on the hip rafter.

We do this all the way to the top whilst running only two or three tiles out from the hip each side. This is so that you can access the hip and point it. You can run all the tiles away from the hip once the hip and all the pointing is complete.

 

[noseall]

PS
You may need to use a chopped tile 'n' half for your mitred eaves cuts. This is so that you have enough 'meat' left on the tile once it has had a big chunk lopped off it. It also means that you will be able to pop a fixing into it which will stop it sliding down whilst you are mortaring your first bonnet above.

These mitred cuts will appear to protrude quite a bit beyond the hip. Don't be tempted to chop them as it will help with rainwater discharge into the gutter. The gutter will hide the ugly exposed bottom cut on the (chopped) eaves also.

 

[Sonnypaul]

Noseall that's great mate, thank you so much for that long reply.

I'll be reading this a few times over.

I'm rebbeding some old bonnets over the weekend for a friend.

The only thing I'm half shore about is he wants me to do the barn around the back aswell but some need replacing, and for some reason he wants new ones, I'm just hoping I can get a match.

I've got 1 as a sample which I'll take down the builders yard, I normally use jewsons but I'll see where else I can go

 

[noseall]

Knowing the roof Pitch is important when selecting hip tiles.

 

[Sonnypaul]

Yeh I've read this before noseall, thank you anyway

Unfortunately I can't get back to his house, I'm sure it wasn't below 35