borehole water accumulator tank

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29 Dec 2009
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Lancashire
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United Kingdom
Hi, everyone, first post so apologies in advance!
Sort of reverse problem to most posts about accumulator tanks, in that we will have a borehole pump supplying DCW to house, tested flow rate is 50ltrs/ min via 25mm MDPE pipe. As water has previously tested positive for bacteria will be installing UV sterilisation unit (rated @ 48ltrs/ min) after primary inline filters. The question is twofold, is there a way to regulate pressure to outlets and have some reserve capacity(accumulator tank?) AND switch pump on/off via some kind of high/low pressure switch to prevent pump cycling? BTW the pump only has simple on/off control(i.e. no built in pressure switch).
All the above only applies to cold water only.
Thanks for any suggestions
 
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You need a bore well pump controller, pressure switch, expansion vessel(sized correctly) and safety valve.

And you have to put it all together. Thats the fun part.

Or you could just have fitted a Grundfos SQE constant pressure system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8-9dSs5Wgw

It's all in a box. ;)
 
Thanks for info, the pump we have at the moment is a relatively cheap one and will not form part of final system (just using it for construction water supply), so the SQE looks like the answer. The house is in France and beaurecrats there insist on proof of potable water before giving construction permit, hence the filters and UV unit (which will be part of final system). Are there any simple rules to follow when sizing pump etc., for a 3 bed,2 bath house- usually only 2 occupants, max 6/7 during hols?
Also, as area can have temperatures down to -15oC (yes minus 15!), I would assume all pipework around well head needs to be lagged with something like armaflex? Sorry, just random thoughts, also considering ground source heat pump, solar, wood burner.............. :confused:
 
Are there any simple rules to follow when sizing pump etc

Yes, let your installer do the sizing as he is the professional with the knowledge. (or at least should have)

You may need trace heating if frosts are that severe.
Insulation above ground only delays freezing.

But you shouldn't have any pipework close ar above the surface.

You should be able to build a man hole above the bore and have access.
The top of the bore hole being few feet below the surface level. Drainage from this level would also be wise. Then the cover well insulated.
Thats how I would want it done.
 
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Good advice and thanks once again. Unfortunately, despite our best efforts we can't find either a French or English contractor in our area willing(or with experience) to do the job, so it's down to yours truly!
I am a semi-retired builder, so not particularly bothered, but I do like to do things right. Maybe SQE supplier can help, so will speak to them in New Year. Luckily, we intend to backfill area around well head, so effectively raising ground levels- so manhole idea is no problem. :)
 
Just a thought but how eliable is your electricity supply, here in Lancaster its been very cold of late and Trace Heating has come up on my radar for some of my out side pipe work, such as condensate pipes from condensing boilers as well as supplies to out side taps.Tim.
 
Have a look here...
http://net.grundfos.com/doc/webnet/sq/int/download/sq_sqn.pdf


Pump selection begins on page 26.
The example they give results in an SQE 3-65.
Thats probably a little oversized for most domestic properties but because its a variable speed pump package with adjustable duty you can lower the performance or raise it at as you wish.
 
Will look at trace heating on web, SQE link downloaded, will read at leisure as brain slightly scrambled today! Thanks for help, much appreciated. Happy New Year to all.
 

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