Bosch oven And hob

[heasman.mark1]

hi , ive got a bosch oven hbn1315 and a hob pke691, the old all in cooker i've taken out was supplied by a cable which went to a junction box and then to an oven switch on a 32amp feed. Is it ok to connect both the new oven and new hob to the one connector? the max ouput of the hob is 6.6kw and the oven is 2.9kw. I've read other posts on this and am confused! btw the installation instructions for the new oven say it should not be connected with a standard 13amp plug and should not be fused to 13amps.
thanks in advance.

 

[BigJon]

6.6KW = 26.4 amps
2.9KW = 11.6 amps
Which is a total of 38 amps so your 32 amp supply will not really be suitable, if your using the cooker on full toot it will be overloaded.
Is it the old re-wireable fuse type consumer unit in your house?
Ideally you'd want to run a 10mm Twin and earth from a 40amp MCB to a 45amp switch then to your new oven + hob

 

[Steve]

6.6KW = 26.4 amps
2.9KW = 11.6 amps
Which is a total of 38 amps so your 32 amp supply will not really be suitable, if your using the cooker on full toot it will be overloaded.
Is it the old re-wireable fuse type consumer unit in your house?
Ideally you'd want to run a 10mm Twin and earth from a 40amp MCB to a 45amp switch then to your new oven + hob

'Ere bodgit n leggit, we give good advice on this forum, not this tripe.

The <3KW oven can be plugged into a 13 amp socket. Yes, thats right, put a plug on it.

38 amps is the maximum possible load. You can discriminate on cookers, the 32 amp feed is more than adequate.

What I'd do is take the cable from your "junction box" AKA the Cooker Connection Point, to the hob. Then connect another 6mm cable to the CCP and lead it to a single socket for the oven to plug into.

This means your oven will be 13 amp protected and will be isolatable by turning off the cooker switch.

 

[GaryMo]

6.6KW = 26.4 amps
2.9KW = 11.6 amps
Which is a total of 38 amps so your 32 amp supply will not really be suitable, if your using the cooker on full toot it will be overloaded.
Is it the old re-wireable fuse type consumer unit in your house?
Ideally you'd want to run a 10mm Twin and earth from a 40amp MCB to a 45amp switch then to your new oven + hob

Diversity is the word you're looking for!

 

[BigJon]

lol, not this tripe, quality
Just my opinion m8, gets rid of that nasty joint box and future proof the installation.
Anyway Happy xmas

 

[Pensdown]

Steve is right, you can't quote your opinion m8 . For future reference please read table 1A in the OSG before you post.

...And Steve forgot to say before you can add a socket to a cooker supply it must meet the following:

If the supply is TT all sockets must be RCD protected. (fit an RCD socket)
If it's TNC (S) it may need to be RCD protected for outside use. (fit an RCD socket)
If the circuit is designed with a 5sec disconnection time fitting an RCD socket will solve the problem.

 

[BigJon]

Fair point, I'll dig mine out before i jump in.
Beers not helpin either

 

[Steve]

...And Steve forgot to say before you can add a socket to a cooker supply it must meet the following:

If the supply is TT all sockets must be RCD protected. (fit an RCD socket)
If it's TNC (S) it may need to be RCD protected for outside use. (fit an RCD socket)
If the circuit is designed with a 5sec disconnection time fitting an RCD socket will solve the problem.

Woah!!! hang on there.

I THOUGHT (i may be wrong), the only reason this socket would need RCD protection would be if it was a TT supply! Its hidden behind an oven, therefore will not be supplying outdoor appliances.

Though if the cooker control unit has a socket too, this may well need RCDing if on the ground floor, because of the risk of supplying something outdoors.

 

[GaryMo]

Steve, he did say *may* require RCD protection.

 

[Steve]

Steve, he did say *may* require RCD protection.

IMO (opinions again!!!) the info he posted was a little "unclear" especially for DIYers.

 

[GaryMo]

I see your point.

Edit to say, not a good idea behind the oven due to inaccessibility to a potential blown fuse. Much better in an adjacent cupboard or cut an access hole out of an adjacent cupboard and mount on the wall.

 

[Pensdown]

My post was clear, (in my opinion )

The OP didn't say if the installation was TT or whether the socket location meant it couldn't be used for outside equipment so I think it's a bit risky just assuming the socket can be connected to a CCU.

I hope im not sounding over the top but adding sockets to cooker circuits is OK but in most situations it can throw up problems which need to be taken into account when replying to posts.

 

[heasman.mark1]

thanks for all the advice, I decided to connect the hob to the old cooker connection point and put a plug on the oven and plugged it into a socket under the work top which is on a different ring on a 32amp mcb, all seems to work fine. Any possible probs with this???

 

[securespark]

Only that the ring is now loaded with an extra 3kW's. If the ring is not heavily loaded, that should be OK, but if your circuit has many heavy appliances on it, it may be woth considering putting the oven on the cooker radial.

 

[heasman.mark1]

I've now wired up the oven and hob as per the previous post and it all works fine UNTIL the oven has been turned off and then it trips out the main switch on the consumer unit (not the mcb) this usually happens about 5 - 10 minutes after we've finished cooking and both the hob and oven are no longer on. I've never had a problem like this with the wiring before and have checked and rechecked my wiring to the cooker connection point which all seems fine. In short I am very confused! the only thing i can think of is a faulty oven, but it cooks fine and this only occurs when it's cooling down! any thoughts greatly appreciated.