bottom entry ball valve - pipe too short?

[Pangloss]

The images are from a toilet installed by house builders 17 years ago. A few years ago I got a leak between the bottom entry ball valve and the isolating valve. I replaced the ball valve, it worked for a few years but when I tightened the nut between the isolating valve and the plastic thread to the ball valve I noticed the copper pipe was pulled upwards.

Recently I got a leak again. See the images in my album

//www.diynot.com/network/Pangloss/albums/


I think the copper pipe was originally cut too short. Hence the damage to the plastic thread.

I have looked around the forum I would like to ask about alternative approaches. //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1185564#1185564


Could I replace the isolating valve by a 300mm flexible tap connector with isolating valve built in or wouldn't there be enough space for the tube to bend?

Should I use a 15mm x half inch tap connector instead? If so can anybody suggest one and any other parts to complete the repair please?

 

[stardanny]

You can cut back copper pipe just enough room to get a 1/2 inch tap connector and a short piece of copper pipe onto isolating valve.

Daniel.

 

[Pangloss]

Thanks Daniel. Sorry, for the following newbie questions but I want to make sure I have understood correctly

The isolating valve is marked "15" on its body, and the incoming pipe is 15mm diameter. I assume I need a 15mm tap connector... duhh??

Will will I need a 15mm tap connector with compression fittings?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_fitting

Will the olives come as part of the tap connector or will they need to be bought separately?

Are all tap connectors the same quality or are there some recommended brands?

Starting from the original cut copper pipe upwards:

Will the tap connector screw straight onto the copper pipe?

Will there be a short piece of copper pipe between the tap connector and the isolating valve?

Will the isolating valve screw onto the plastic ball valve pipe as now only better?

Could I cut the bottom off the threaded plastic pipe belonging to the float valve instead of cutting the copper pipe? It seems a bit easier than trying to cut a copper pipe in a confined space?

 

[Pangloss]

could I use for example:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/conex-chr...or/98976#product_additional_details_container

http://www.screwfix.com/p/straight-coupler-end-feed-15mm-pack-of-2/71343?_requestid=252304

 

[footprints]

Often the problem is just a tiny angle between the union (were the washer that needs replacing is) and the plastic thread stopping the very weak plastic thread from pulling the joint square. Often the best way is to connect the union first and then couple back onto the pipe. You will need a new plastic valve as the thread is shot.



On the other hand cut back the pipe put in an isolation valve

http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-isolating-valve-pack-of-2/65251

a very short bit of copper tube and one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/female-coupler-15mm-x/93992

screwed on to the plastic with ptfe and put a washer in the fitting that the end of the plastic will seat against as an extra seal.

 

[Classic40]

I would cut out the valve and fit a flexi with one built in. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...m+x+12+10mm+Bore+300mm+Long/d20/sd2807/p30150

 

[Pangloss]

I would cut out the valve and fit a flexi with one built in. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...0mm+Bore+300mm+Long/d20/sd2807/p30150[/QUOTE]

I would prefer to use a single component like this but with space being limited I am concerned about putting a kink in rubber tube.

Does anyone know what the static minimum bending radius would be for a flexible connector?

 

[Pangloss]

I would cut out the valve and fit a flexi with one built in. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...0mm+Bore+300mm+Long/d20/sd2807/p30150[/QUOTE]

I can find 150mm flexible tap connectors but up to now I can't find any WRAS approved ones. I am not intending to drink from the toilet bowl so I am wondering whether I really need a WRAS approved flexible tap connector. Is it a regulatory requirement?

Does anybody know where I could by a WRAS approved 150mm 1/2" to 15mm flexible tap connector?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[oldbuffer]

Could try a 1/2" brass tap extender. Like http://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/brass-tap-extension-half.html

 

[Pangloss]

Could try a 1/2" brass tap extender. Like http://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/brass-tap-extension-half.html[/QUOTE]

That looks simple, would it need any sealant or ptfe tape?

 

[dreadnoughtheating]

Now, myself I would fit a Fluidmaster Pro inlet valve with a brass threaded shank, and use a neoprene washer between the shank and the end of the iso valve.

Much less chance of cross threading and quiet too. The neoprene washers can be bought as packs of ten, or you just nick one from a push-fit tap connect next time you are in b&q....

DH

 

[oldbuffer]

Re. Tap extender. No need for PTFE or other sealant, but you will need two 1/2" fibre tap connector washers.

One between the inner part of the extender and the base of the plastic thread, the other between your tap connector and the bottom of the male part of the extender.

 

[Pangloss]

Now, myself I would fit a Flushmaster Pro inlet valve with a brass threaded shank, and use a neoprene washer between the shank and the end of the iso valve.

I bought a Flushdaddy.

I did a search for Flushmaster and picked the best price which was on Amazon. Because I was in a hurry I only found out I hadn't bought a Flushmaster when it arrived.

So far I am quite pleased with the Flushdaddy, despite some negative comments I have found in this forum. The brass shank is quite solid and the isolator valve tightened onto it very nicely. I took things easy, left it over night a couple of times then tightened the nut a quarter of a turn until the joint stopped weeping. It's been completely dry for a couple of days now.

The cistern fills very rapidly at full flow and cuts off very quickly as soon as the float reaches the level I set. That's much better than the plastic BS valve and float I have been using. The packaging even claims it is WRAS approved. I found additional instructions on line. The ones in the package were a bit hard to follow. I can confirm it must be Chinese because the name of the pdf I downloaded is partially in Chinese characters.

It's for a guest WC so it doesn't get very much use so I am hoping it will last as long as I need it to.

I know I have thanked everybody on this thread but I am really grateful for the time taken to to offer advice and support.