Brakes sticking on my Terrano

[suts89]

Hi,

Got a problem with the brakes on my 2000 Nissan terrano II

After around 15 to 20 minutes the brake pedal starts to go hard and the front brakes begin to stick on, gently at first but then very hard.

Since the problem first happened I have replaced both front callipers ( bloody not cheap at 200 quid) The old ones were in a state and I thought this had fixed the problem.

However after just a few days it happened again!!!!

Please can someone help?

Cheers

 

[Burnerman]

Are you talking about 20 mins normal driving, i.e accellerating, braking, etc?
If so I would suspect that the front flexible brake pipes are faulty and collapsing internally, that is not allowing brake fluid to return.
Were the new calipers easy to bleed?
Failing this, the master cylinder has to be suspect.
John

 

[suts89]

Burnerman yes 20 minutes of normal driving.

I haven't yet determined for sure if both sides or just one are sticking, however the car doesn't seem to be pulling over to either side. What's the chances of both hoses being bad? I guess to check the hoses I just need to stop and have a look/feel for any abnormalities?

Are their any checks I can carry out on the master cylinder to try and narrow it down?

Cheers mate

 

[Mursal]

Have you a few mm free play when you push the pedal to ensure all pressure is released?

Disconnect the master cylinder and check the piston is returning back against the end clip

 

[Burnerman]

One sure way of checking for binding brakes - either one or both- is to feel the wheel centre for heat. Don't touch the disc though, it will be very hot!
Another check is to stop when the brakes are stuck on, then open the bleed nipple which will release pressure in the brake lines.
I would suspect the master cylinder, but personally I haven't come across this problem with this component.
John

 

[suts89]

Have you a few mm free play when you push the pedal to ensure all pressure is released?

Disconnect the master cylinder and check the piston is returning back against the end clip

Hard to say for sure if there is a few mm or not, the pedal goes really rock hard!

 

[suts89]

One sure way of checking for binding brakes - either one or both- is to feel the wheel centre for heat. Don't touch the disc though, it will be very hot!
Another check is to stop when the brakes are stuck on, then open the bleed nipple which will release pressure in the brake lines.
I would suspect the master cylinder, but personally I haven't come across this problem with this component.
John

Theirs no doubt that brakes are stuck on. I just have to take my foot of the gas and the brakes to a stop.

I,l try and determine if one or both brakes is sticking tomorrow.

 

[Burnerman]

With new calipers and presumably no tugging to left or right, I guess it has to be the master cylinder.
John

 

[suts89]

With new calipers and presumably no tugging to left or right, I guess it has to be the master cylinder.
John

Yeh sounds about right but why only after 20 minutes or so?

Is it difficult to change the master cylinder?

 

[Burnerman]

The 20 minute delay has me foxed too!
Easy enough to change the master cylinder....release the brake pipes then unbolt it from the servo. Usually I just let them self bleed from the top, i.e top up the fluid in the reservoir, leave the brake pipe connections loose until fluid appears. Then, have a mate apply gentle pedal pressure while you nip the pipes up.
John

 

[suts89]

The 20 minute delay has me foxed too!
Easy enough to change the master cylinder....release the brake pipes then unbolt it from the servo. Usually I just let them self bleed from the top, i.e top up the fluid in the reservoir, leave the brake pipe connections loose until fluid appears. Then, have a mate apply gentle pedal pressure while you nip the pipes up.
John

I wonder if something could be heating up and maybe expanding? I dunno!

Where's the best/cheapest place to pick one up, any idea?

Thanks for your help burnerman

 

[Mursal]

I thought the brakes were not releasing fully and it takes about 20 minutes for them to overheat and bind on?

Ensure the pedal is not impeded from going back (releasing) fully, there must be free play or the new master cylinder will bind just the same as the old.

 

[Burnerman]

The 20 minute delay has me foxed too!
Easy enough to change the master cylinder....release the brake pipes then unbolt it from the servo. Usually I just let them self bleed from the top, i.e top up the fluid in the reservoir, leave the brake pipe connections loose until fluid appears. Then, have a mate apply gentle pedal pressure while you nip the pipes up.
John

I wonder if something could be heating up and maybe expanding? I dunno!

Where's the best/cheapest place to pick one up, any idea?

Thanks for your help burnerman

I can only suspect that the master cylinder isn't backing off fully for some reason, and the servo is helping to keep the brakes on (only theoretical, this!)
If you do decide to replace it, a good motor factors will get one for you - I use TMS or AV Taylors as they are handy for me.
John

 

[Mursal]

Might be worth disconnecting the vacuum pump from the servo, to eliminate a weak valve in the servo applying air pressure to the master cylinder.

Just be careful, as the brake pedal will be hard to apply and you will have useless brakes. No good disconnecting after they come on, you will have to disconnect before you start your 20 minute journey.