Breaking Up Side Path at Double-Depth

[BGD]

I guess this is the best place to put this!

In have a side path that I need to get rid of before winter comes. The person who lived in our house before us, stuck a path on top of the existing path, raising it up and tipping it inwards so that when it rains the rainwater scoots straight down the airbricks!

I've added three pictures so that you can see:

the extent of the path
the raised height compared to neighbours
the slope of the path next to airbricks

So we have a very musty cellar and (which I assume is related) some unwelcome crystals and damp patches on the wall inside from (sort of) this area.



So, question: what's the best way to get it sorted? Is it using a sledge hammer/pickaxe and a crow bar or popping down to the localish hire shop and getting a pneumatic hammer type piece of equipment.

I've obviously got to get through not just the top path, but the one underneath and then start to think about relaying it under the supposed damp proof course all over again..

Is there anything else I should be aware of, i.e. being extra careful when going down right next to house?

Thanks in advance for any tips!

 

[BGD]

Untitled

• BGD
• 19 Jun 2014
• 1

Untitled

• BGD
• 19 Jun 2014
• 1

Untitled

• BGD
• 19 Jun 2014
• 1

 

[Deluks]

Hire a breaker for a day if you aren't fit.
A sledgehammer will make light work of it once you get a hole started. Buy the heaviest one in the shop!

Yes, beware the house (start ij the centre), and any pipes/cable, although they should be much deeper than the path.

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

Borrow the biggest cold chisel you can and try and get it in between the two layers of path, because one layer is easier then two. Don't bother smashing down on the path, always try to lift it as it will beak easily, smashing downwards leaves the path supported by the earth and it will be difficult to break. Lever it up and then crack it.
Frank

 

[ree]

1. Remove the fencing before work begins. Discuss with neighbour any future fence arrangements.

2. Careful not to encroach and damage the surface of your neighbour's path when cracking out your path.

3. Your final finished path level must not discharge water on to your neighbour's path.
You might finish up with a finished path level below the neighbour's.

4. Remove the plinth.

5. Insert larger air bricks, and add more if necessary.

6. The pointing looks very rough, or its been done in a reverse angle style of pointing - this style is ridiculous, it merely traps water. A bucket handle finish is simplest and works well.

7. Have at least one helper and all tools and skip on hand before starting - work slow and steady towards the skip.
Note: some carriers will remove clean concrete hardcore for free.

 

[phatboy]

A day with a JCB Beaver Pack will see that gone no problems. Why use a sledge hammer when you can hire a machine to do the work for you?!

That, a wheel barrow and a skip, and you should have your feet up with a beer by 5pm

 

[BGD]

Sorry, gents, been waylaid. This has all been very helpful, thank you for the responses!