Brick Air Vent - any solutions for reducing noise and cold?

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We have a brick air vent in our box room with an adjustable vent on the inside so we can open and close it.

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about reducing the noise, and with winter coming up the cold that cames through it.

thanks in advance.
 
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Fill it with foam, or cement and bricks.
A hole in the top of a wall, means simply that most of the heat you put into the room disappears out through the hole.
OK, I accept that one needs ventilation and a way to loose the water vapour that our way of living puts into a home but having a large hole in the top of a wall is not the best way.
Using a de-humidifier to loose the water vapour is best as the heat stays in the room. Opening the window for five minutes in the morning will provide fresh air.
Perry
 
You need a passive vent kit.

These are similar to normal vents and wall liners, but have a membrane or special baffle arrangements inside and these prevent draughts and reduce noise.

Try http://www.airtechenvironmental.co.uk/pages/vapourvent.html and http://www.passivent.com/downloads/Background_Ventilation.pdf - the models are the "fresh" series on page 42 onwards

The above models have a membrane/filter which is effective in stopping draughts and cutting down on noise. Check with the manufacturer for local suppliers, or they can normally supply direct

The following two are cheaper, but use internal baffles to disrupt the airflow

http://www.airflow-vent.co.uk/draught.htm

http://www.stadium-ventilation.co.uk/vents/downloads/Blackhole_Vario.pdf

Again, check with the manufacturer for suppliers.

None of these are generally common at local merchants, but any local supplier of ventilation products should be able to obtain these or similar ones
 
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You need a passive vent kit.

These are similar to normal vents and wall liners, but have a membrane or special baffle arrangements inside and these prevent draughts and reduce noise.

Try http://www.airtechenvironmental.co.uk/pages/vapourvent.html and http://www.passivent.com/downloads/Background_Ventilation.pdf - the models are the "fresh" series on page 42 onwards

The above models have a membrane/filter which is effective in stopping draughts and cutting down on noise. Check with the manufacturer for local suppliers, or they can normally supply direct

The following two are cheaper, but use internal baffles to disrupt the airflow

http://www.airflow-vent.co.uk/draught.htm

http://www.stadium-ventilation.co.uk/vents/downloads/Blackhole_Vario.pdf

Again, check with the manufacturer for suppliers.

None of these are generally common at local merchants, but any local supplier of ventilation products should be able to obtain these or similar ones

Any idea on the £ of one of those airtech vents? I'm looking to increase ventilation in our bedroom and these look just the job.
 
Fill it with foam, or cement and bricks.
A hole in the top of a wall, means simply that most of the heat you put into the room disappears out through the hole.
OK, I accept that one needs ventilation and a way to loose the water vapour that our way of living puts into a home but having a large hole in the top of a wall is not the best way.
Using a de-humidifier to loose the water vapour is best as the heat stays in the room. Opening the window for five minutes in the morning will provide fresh air.
Perry
Perry, do you work for an expanding foam company?
 
A simple baffle on the outside will reduce noise and direct wind entry , whatever you do don't block , thats just stupid advice.
 
also stupid is the idea of using a dehumidifier to cope with the results of poor ventilation.
 
JohnD, this stupid idea, soaks up the humidity in a room and raises it temperature, dry air is also cheaper to heat, it also avoids the heat loss associated with a hole in the wall, ventilation yes, but uncontrolled ventilation no.
If you take the time to study the result of fitting a hole in a wall, or trickle ventilator that some are called, you will find that the amount of ventilation, is little to do with the design of the vent, but a lot to do with the hight of the building above sea level and the hight of the vent above the ground and how exposed the building is. The design of these products is usually done in a laboratory under controlled conditions, real life isn't so simple.
You might ponder a moment why we fit windows and doors.
According to your theory trying to heat a field is both easy and cheap.
That is, until you have to pay the bill.
 
According to your theory trying to heat a field is both easy and cheap. .
I did not propound a theory.

I did not mention a field.

until now, neither of us has mentioned the cost of buying and running a dehumidifier, nor the advantages of fresh air rather than recycled.

If you are recommending a living environment that suffers from damp, I suggest that it needs more ventilation, not a dehumidifier.
 
I can't see the word "uncontrolled" in what I wrote. Can you?

also stupid is the idea of using a dehumidifier to cope with the results of poor ventilation.

If you are recommending a living environment that suffers from damp, I suggest that it needs more ventilation, not a dehumidifier.
 
Not forgetting the best reason for a dehumidifier in the bedroom, is that the constant hum from the motor and reverberation through the floor is actually a nice soothing noise to help you get to sleep

And just ensure that you position it so that not one ounce of moisture from the air gets anywhere near the top cold corner of the box room.

In fact I often wonder why these energy consuming devices are not fitted as standard to all homes, instead of those wasteful holes in walls and window frames :rolleyes:
 
Perry has cracked it, brick up your windows to prevent all that uncontrolled light and turn you lights on, simple.
 

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