Brushwood killer and how to protect other plants etc

Min

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The patch of brambles in the garden has to go, to be replaced by a veg and fruit patch over an area of about 4m x 3m.

I have got some SBK Brushwood Killer. It's a systemic herbicide which 'breaks down' on contact with the soil, but does it really?
The active ingredient is triclopyr which is in the pyridine group.

Pyridine contamination of manure has caused dead or damaged veggies like runner beans, tomatoes and potatoes. It has also mooted as a possible cause of problems with bees. It's banned in France.

My question is - is there a safer way than spraying to use Brushwood killer?. How about taking one of the bramble 'shoots' that grow out along the ground and self-layer (do they have a special name?) and sticking it in a plastic bottle of the killer and taping it up safely?

Or would I be better to cut the bramble down to ground level then carefully dab each stump with Brushwood?

Anybody tried either of these methods or got any suggestions?

Thanks very much
 
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I have got some SBK Brushwood Killer. It's a systemic herbicide which 'breaks down' on contact with the soil, but does it really?
Yes

you quote examples, not specifically of SBK, when you say a comparable product did not break down when it was not in contact with the soil. Why?
 
Good question - the example I refer seems to be that the grass was sprayed then eaten by horses and then passed got into the manure.

I don't want to contaminate nearby the grass and apple because I'm not confident there won't be a harmful effect on insects.

And is it confirmed that these herbicides really do break down when in contact with the soil?
 
yes

I think you'd better not spray it on your apple trees, as it will kill them.
 
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Jeez! - brushwood killer for brambles! - that's a bit over the top - it's not Japanese knotgrass you know.
All you need to use is Roundup - active ingredient glyphosate, which biodegrades very quickly.It's getting a bit late in the year to apply Roundup now, as it works best when the plants are actively growing.
If you're planning on preparing the ground for an allotment, best to clear the brambles by hand or if it's a large area hire a decent hedgetrimmer to chop them up into small lengths. These can be collected and burnt when they've dried out a bit. Don't worry about the roots and stumps for the moment. Thoroughly dig over the plot during this autumn, incorporating any compost or manure if you can. Just turn any perennial weeds and roots into the soil. In the Spring lightly dig over the ground again. Then, wait until the middle of April, when you should have a forest of weeds of all descriptions coming up. Apply Roundup thoroughly then, and wait for a couple of weeks. Then, without digging again, you can plant out all your veg plants which you have been raising in pots and trays from earlier sowings. Repeat this procedure the following season, by then you should have started to get on top of your perennial weeds.
This method really is worth the extra planning involved. Hope this helps.
 
Brushwood killer is specifically designed for use on difficult woody weeds such as brambles and widely used for their control because normal glyphosate gives poor often hit and miss control.

B3taman is quite right regarding the timing though it will not effectively control all the weed now and you'll get significant re-growth in spring so best to wait til then and do it all at once.
 
Thank you r896neo and B3taman for good, solid advice.

I now have a plan of action.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.
 
If its not a large area and they are not really dense they are not that hard to dig out.
 
Yes, it's made me wonder why I ever thought of poisoning them!

Dig, dry, burn - very therapeutic!
 
If its not a large area and they are not really dense they are not that hard to dig out.

I agree, this usually the most effective way to handle things like this. It also ensures that any killers you use don't spread to other plants.
 

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