Building my first stud wall

[TheCyclingProgrammer]

I'm about to start a little project to build out our existing chimney breast - the TV is already mounted on the chimney breast itself - a stud frame will enclose the chimney breast but leave a recess for the TV mount and a flex outlet for the power connection to the TV. Cables will be hidden inside the false wall.

Here's a Sketchup model that gives you an idea of what I'm doing:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/570528/Chimney Breast Framework - Frame.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/570528/Chimney Breast Framework - Fittings.png

Note: the TV itself will not be recessed into the false wall, but the recess allows the TV to be pushed back up to it with the mount inside the recess, so it doesn't stick out any more than necessary.

I've already planned the route for the power cable inside safe zones - the flex outlet will be connected to an FCU on the left side of the false chimney breast (in the alcove). The cable will run up the inside corner of the alcove, along to the top and down the front to the outlet.

I'm still trying to figure out the best approach for running the HDMI and speaker cables - I'd like to put them in conduit so I can pull new cables but I don't want to build out the wall too much. Cables will exit from brush plates on side and in recess.

I'm just about to order my timber and plasterboard (I'm using 63x38mm CLS) and I just wondered if there's any general tips you can give me for making sure I build this thing properly, square and level.

Any essential tools that will help me do a good job?
What are the best fixings for the plasterboard?
The false wall will be skimmed along with the rest of the room. Does my stud work in the above sketch look sufficient?
Any tips on notching/cutting holes for running cables?
Should I leave a small gap between the floor and plasterboard? If so how much? (I probably need to consider that our existing floorboards are probably going to be over-boarded before we have laminate put down).

Thanks!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Seems reasonable, although I don't think you'll need to double-up on the verticals (see comments below)

I'm just about to order my timber and plasterboard (I'm using 63x38mm CLS) and I just wondered if there's any general tips you can give me for making sure I build this thing properly, square and level.

When your timber comes if it is wet you'll not need to pre-pilot (which makes framing easier). Use #10 x 3-1/2 or #10 x 4in (or 5.0 x 80/90/100mm metric - by #10 I mean 10 gauge) CSK head screws to put it all together. Make your studs match the sizes of your boards - so if you are using 1800 x 900 boards your studs need to be at 300 or 450 centres, etc. I'd consider making the whole lot up as three separate frames rather than the way you show and raising them into place (fix together through the corners) - they should be tight to the ceiling. Measure the two diagonals when you make up frames - if the frame is square the diagonals should be the same - if needs be adjust with a "birmingham screwdriver". SDS drill (7mm) through the sole plate into the floor, knock-in brown plugs, knock through with #10 screws then tighten to anchor to floor (if masonry/concrete). Same for the uprights to the walls. If you don't remove the existing skirtings first you'll need to scallop the bottoms of the end frames so you can fix it tight to the wall. Make sure that you check these end frames for plumbness and pack off the wall as necessary to get the fronts plumb

You need a decent level - I'm a chippie and a 6ft level is de rigeur, but a 4 footer taped onto a 6ft length of straight 3 x 2 PSE will do as well. Also 5 metre tape (get a Stanley - it will last you years). Chop saw for speed and accuracy. Cordless drill with a bit holder and PZD#2 and PH#2 bits (the Phillips are for drywalls ONLY, timber screws are PZD - don't mix and match as if foobahs the screw heads). 160z adze eye claw hammer (e.g. Stanley Steelmaster or the like)

What are the best fixings for the plasterboard?

Drywalls. Wickes ones are better than the crud from BnPoo or Screwed-Up IMHO

Any tips on notching/cutting holes for running cables?

Get a drywall saw (jab saw, stab saw, etc. Large cuts in PB are dealt with by using an old hand saw. Stanley knife, straight edge (for cutting PB) and a small Surform to deal with rouge edges

Should I leave a small gap between the floor and plasterboard? If so how much?

One or two thicknesses of PB (assuming 12.5mm board). I normally do two

This is the sort of way I'd go:

Untitled

• Deleted member 174758
• 27 Mar 2015
• 1

BTW you will need to sort out that recess before boarding over the outside

 

[foxhole]

For square and level buy a square and level.

 

[gregers]

and dont forget to buy a plum