Bungs question.

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Hello all, I'm going to fit a two way motorised valve unit in the cylinder top input 22mm pipe, which is fed from the F+E tank in the loft, and I would like to use one bung in the vent and one for the cold feed.

I've read the bungs work ok on radiator valve replacement, but not sure if they will suspend the flow on my proposed job.

Any advice please.
vectraguy
 
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bungs will work on anything you want to change on the system.
 
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If you need to do any soldering, I would drain the system; it only takes a tiny bit of water to come down at the wrong moment to ruin your work.
 
They should work ok fire them in/on then open drain until water stops. Make sure all aoto air vents etc are closed.
Once drain stops shut it back off and go for it.
You may get a small amount of water but should be no problem.
Ive even used them for 3 port valve exchanges and 28mm 2 ports :eek: :eek:
Changed a cylinder once without draining heating side as used bungs then disconnected flow and return to cyl and was no problem
 
why are you putting a valve there ?

To be controlled by the cylinder thermostat, and prevent continuous tap water heating beyond the required temperature, without affecting the radiator flow.

Vectraman.

yes sorry vectraguy should have corrected my post
when i first read the post i couldn't make out that it was the flow pipe you was fitting it on. :oops: till i read it again.
 
If you need to do any soldering, I would drain the system; it only takes a tiny bit of water to come down at the wrong moment to ruin your work.

Thanks m8, but using JG push on connections.

vectraman.
 
If I understand the question, you are fitting a zone valve on the cylinder flow :eek:

Is this after the open vent, and is it a gravity circuit at the moment.
 
If I understand the question, you are fitting a zone valve on the cylinder flow :eek:

Is this after the open vent, and is it a gravity circuit at the moment.

I assume by "open vent" you are referring to the vent in the F&E loft tank and if so the answers Yes, and the output from the boiler goes to a pump and then to a two way valve which controls heating / water together and water on it's own depending on the manual setting of the Honeywell controller.

Regards vectraman
 
you mean a 3 port valve. so its a y plan system.

A 3 way valve would be very nice and give me full control with if required heating on its own which at the moment is not possible, without a major job hence the need to have some different control over the hot water via the extra 2 way valve acting as a simple go /no go tank coil water flow.

I realise this is a non conventional way but it works, and we have a towel radiator which is permanently open to allow safe boiler output during periods of cylinder coil flow being temporaly closed.

Regards vectraman.
 

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