cable for cooker

[goofy gorilla]

ok guys, im gonna run a 6mm cable from the consumer unit to the kitchen for for my electric cooker, the kitchen has just been replastered, , how can i bring the cable down from the ceiling, down under the worktop....shall i cut a channel about 2-3 inched wide down to the breeze blocks, cover the cable with some electrical sheathing plate then plaster over it or just run it down the wall with some plastic ducting....what does the laww state..cheers

 

[luminaire]

You need only to protect it with plastic channel. That is so you don't damage the cable whilst plastering. Just make sure the run is vertical.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Where are you planning to locate the isolation switch?

 

[goofy gorilla]

Where are you planning to locate the isolation switch?

if you mean the cooker control unit, near enough to the electric cooker and below the worktop, where it is normally located.

 

[Taylortwocities]

No I mean the isolator switch. The one that has to be situated within 2 metres of the cooker.

 

[goofy gorilla]

No I mean the isolator switch. The one that has to be situated within 2 metres of the cooker.

Hang on here one minute, im gettin a bit confused here....it seem straight forward according to this :

//www.diynot.com/pages/el/el027.php#a4

it doesnt mention anything about any isolator switch....so where exactly does this isolator switch fit in according to the guide in the above link....

 

[Taylortwocities]

Aha but there's much more. Most of it in the IEE Regulations and Building Regulations.

Start here //www.diynot.com/pages/el/el027.php

I suggest you also have a good look at, you have some things you must do regarding making legal the DIY electrical work you are doing http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/electrical_safety.pdf

 

[goofy gorilla]

yes that all fine, obviously saftey comes first and before i even attempt to do it i will have a freind who although isnt a sparky, but know so much about everthing.have a look ....back to my point from what ive been reading on the net, an isolating switch is basically the cooker control unit with the neon indictor light like this :

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BLACK-NICKEL-...0QQihZ002QQcategoryZ57215QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

so the switch isolates the supply to the cooker which can then be moved or whatever you are going to do with this...am i correct..cheers

 

[bernardgreen]

Simple

There must be switch easily accesible to isolate the cooker from the power, accessible rapidly ( ie not behind the cleaning materials or cereal packs ) and without having to reach over a cooker which has a jammed thermostat and is about to glow red hot all over.

Also there should a point between this switch and the cooker where the flex from the cooker can be disconnected to remove the cooker. This used to be inside the cooker switch until it was realise that even with that switch off there were live terminals where the person was working to connect or disconnect the cooker.

 

[goofy gorilla]

ok i see..then its consumer unit > cooker control unit > isolation switch > terminal output block > cooker..

 

[bernardgreen]

ok i see..then its consumer unit > cooker control unit > isolation switch > terminal output block > cooker..

cooker control and isolation switch are the same thing.

 

[goofy gorilla]

ok i see..then its consumer unit > cooker control unit > isolation switch > terminal output block > cooker..

cooker control and isolation switch are the same thing.

thankyou mate...thats what i was thinking until someone in the above posts starting talking about isolation switches etc....

 

[GaryMo]

You need only to protect it with plastic channel. That is so you don't damage the cable whilst plastering. Just make sure the run is vertical.

A cable does not require protection if its run within the correct wiring zones.