Can anyone advise on these pics please? (supporting walls an

[fabgav]

Hi all.

Right, I want to knock down 4 internal walls currently bathroom toilet and porchway.

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• fabgav
• 2 May 2012
• 2

Now I took some plaster off today and took some pics.

Im confused as to why there are two different types of brick - one red and the other a grey type.

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• fabgav
• 12 May 2012
• 1

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• fabgav
• 12 May 2012
• 1

Above is the yellow wall to the far right in the middle. it has a window in with a wodden 'lintel' above

Also, where i have mentioned about the walls being different thickness'es

I removed some ceeling and found that above the wall come out to the same as the wall to the left

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• fabgav
• 12 May 2012
• 1

My question are really.

a. in your own opinion and by no means will i take it as gospel (ie. i will seek a SE) but will it be safe to take out the walls i want to.
fyi the joist above run from bottom of diagram to end wall, a span of about 2.8mtr

b. what type are the grey brick and will they support a lintel
( on the far left where tri fold door would go the outer skin is red brick inner is the grey type.

Any advise and comment welcomed, thanks all

 

[fabgav]

I have figured out where the different coloured brick.

Originally there was no door in the porch bit so the red brick with window was an 'outside' wall

 

[tim00]

I'd suggest not to do anything, certainly no knocking down anything, until you've had a bit more advice , from here or from a professional on site. Dont open up any more ceilings either - not all, but most above ceiling areas are accessible to view.

If you posted pics of the outside area and shots from the inside showing the whole wall it would help.

 

[fabgav]

here are outside photo

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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
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[tim00]

From what i can figure out: you want to remove most of the ground floor wall, including two window frames, and two doors?

And the internal walls of a ground floor WC compartment?

And then insert a folding door, and one new window frame?

Am i correct so far?

 

[fabgav]

Hi, yes pretty much, Ive tried to edit PICTURE (Badly)

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• fabgav
• 13 May 2012
• 2

also the walls that are on the left (currently pantry and the outside shed bit)

 

[tim00]

1. OK, you'r going to have to find the direction of all joists in the floor above.Go upstairs and lift floor coverings.

2. Any joists that rest on the outer wall can be propped from below, inside the room. The joist tails will support the brickwork above.

3. Any joists that run parallel with the outer wall or inner wall, then the wall has to be needled or "Strong-boyed"

4. Leave undisturbed as much brickwork as possible, esp. in the soil pie area. Dont go banging and smashing. Remove one brick at a time.

5. Only remove and re-build one wall at a time. Do the outer wall first.

6.Quite what doors you have in mind in that unsheltered location i dont know. They require further research. Worth getting a plan from an architectural technician.

7. Almost anything is possible in the building trade if you have the time, energy and money.

 

[fabgav]

Hi Tim, thanks for your info.
All joist run from the back of the house to the middle.

If the joist tails will support bricks above will I just need to insert strong boys to hold up the outer skin?

the doors going on the right-hand side (where the shed door is) will be wooden tri-fold from wickes.
Have downloaded the instruction off website, very detailed!

One thing though, would I be able to put a catnic cavity lintel from the right hand of the pvc door (which is the proper width wall) and span it to above the little frosted glass window (which is not proper cavity below the brick arch but is proper cavity above.
With this though it means approx 30mm of the lintel would be over hanging the bricks below. but the bricks above would be sat correctly.

Hope that makes sense

 

[tim00]

Ref. holding up the outer skin, yes use strong boy's. i didn't explain that clearly. Difficulty is, giving this kind of advice over the web, a number of "best" decisions have to be taken there on site.

At the least, you will have to install a drip hood above the door frame. Security and the sill arrangements must also be looked at.

I dont understand the catnic business - are you saying that the outer skin brickwork at that point recesses 30mm? Surely not. Any discrepancies on the inner skin can be dealt with reasonably easily.

 

[fabgav]

Hi, no its not the outter skin that recesses, its the inner, but from the 2nd floor up it comes back out to standard cavity.

I presume you can not have a lintel across 2 different thickness of wall as all the inner half of the lintel will only be sat on half a brick if you see what i mean?

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• fabgav
• 14 May 2012
• 1

 

[tim00]

I can't advise you with any accuracy because far more detail ref. spans and section dimensions would be req'd.
But, it's common to run long, or short, lintels/rsj's providing each bearing end has a sound support.
Sometimes short nibs/pillars of brick are built to catch and carry a bearing end. Any such work must be integrated into the whole kitchen plan.

Research lintels on here, and the Catnic site.

 

[fabgav]

Brill, I've just realised that yes the end of the lintel needs to be supported fully not the middle.

Sorry.

Well thanks alot for you info and help Tim, its been very informative.