Can Ceramic metal halide lamps be used as a replacement for non-cermaic lamps?

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The lamp you show is a standard metal halide double ended lamp, and likely the same as the one supplied with that fitting.

Though there is different colour temps, ie CW NW Daylight and other colours.

All 70w fittings with internal igniter will run them lamps, providing the lamp is 70w, even 70 watt son fittings will run 70w metal halide providing the fitting has a igniter fitted, though the casing has to be able to handle the extra heat from a metal halide lamp, hence why more son fittings are plastic front and metal halide glass fronted

They do not make a metal halide lamp with an internal igniter, therefore all M/H fittings will contain an igniter.
The M/H bulb should not be handled, unlike a son and fitted with the pointed V bit of the element pointing upwards.

EDIT
Oh i see, I noted the ones being sold lately seem to have different INTERNAL bits, I note they are now calling them CERAMIC, which is news to me.
I have noticed they are brighter though.
I quess they just work better than the new ones, but not heard nothing about them not working from the same units and the ones we fit work fine.
 
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From what I understand, you have normal and ceramic metal halide lamps.

Compare the following TLC codes below:

Non Ceramic: LA MH70
Ceramic: LA CMI-TD70NDL

The fixture from Tool Station is supplied without a lamp.
 
seems that way, though most M/H lamps are branded CMH and have been for years, apparently they used to be Quartz before, though I never realised and any I have brought have worked the same, International lamps are a large outlet so likely offer the cheaper ones for Group relamping to keep the cost down.
We fit them fittings a lot and there sold under many brands and im sure should be fine, the only minor problem is the cover screws ocasionally seize in after a few years as there steel screws into ally and it seems to react
 
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eveares said:
Are ceramic metal halide lamps interchangeable with non ceramic metal halide lamps or do the ceramic ones need different control gear?

I am thinking of getting this light fixture: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p27660?table=no

and this bulb to go with it: https://internationallamps.co.uk/pr...0watt-double-ended-rx7s-ceramic-metal-halide/

Are they compatible?
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I really do wonder why you are contemplating buying, installing and paying for the energy to power such an incandescent metal halide lamp, when RX7 LEDs are available.
Many other LEDs, and their fittings, may be more suitable for any such purpose.
 
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FrodoOne said:
I really do wonder why you are contemplating buying, installing and paying for the energy to power such an incandescent metal halide lamp, when RX7 LEDs are available.
Many other LEDs, and their fittings, may be more suitable for any such purpose.
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Was this a serious question? Metal halide is not incandescent. The technology is mature (aka boring), reliable, and of comparable efficiency to LED lamps. Up-front cost of LED is somewhat more for equivalent lighting, and any energy costs savings are minimal unless you run an awful lots of hours. Hence this is a decision made for reasons other than day-to-day running cost. The OP might want to consider LED, for example if the lamp runs for many hours every single day or if startup time or colour is an issue, but the implication of your question is that they're just an idiot which is out of line.
 
The purpose is to mount 4 of them on an existing T lighting bar, to light up occasional large outside areas for night time events. While it is true LED's have a higher lumen per watt ratio, the on cost of buying LED's with a similar light output is to high to justify when they are probably only going to be used no more than 50 hours per year!
 
ianniann said:
Was this a serious question? Metal halide is not incandescent. The technology is mature (aka boring), reliable, and of comparable efficiency to LED lamps. Up-front cost of LED is somewhat more for equivalent lighting, and any energy costs savings are minimal unless you run an awful lots of hours. Hence this is a decision made for reasons other than day-to-day running cost. The OP might want to consider LED, for example if the lamp runs for many hours every single day or if startup time or colour is an issue, but the implication of your question is that they're just an idiot which is out of line.
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My apologies. I was confusing "Metal Halide" with "Halogen". Mea culpa.

A quick check seems to indicate that the lumens per watt from metal halides and LEDs is about the same.

As for the cost, I note that the cost of the proposed fitting and a 70 W lamp is about £35 and 100 W LEDs are available for £25.
Whether these different items are both of similar quality I cannot say, since I note that Philips 70 W LED Floodlights are selling here for the equivalent of £75 while their "normal" price is quoted as being £173 !
 
eveares said:
Not off Ebay or Banggood by any chance? Have you seen BigClivesDotCom's videos?
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I have now watched some of BigClives videos on YouTube and I am somewhat appalled by the soldering technique employed in
, plus the idiocy of connecting 230 V directly to a 25 - 30 V (?) chip !

Be that as it may, at about 80 lumens per watt (for both "Metal Halide" and "LED"), it is quite a lot of light when using 70 W in each of 4 lamps.
You (eveares) seem to require "quite a lot of light" (say, 22400 lumens) from four (presumably) corners, to "light up occasional large outside areas for night time events."

In the past, my more modest requirements were satisfied by 120 W incandescent "para-floods" and those requirements can now be satisfied by items such as these 12 W LEDs, at about a £9 equivalent. (http://www.electriciansupplies.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=12_151_276)

I have used some "nominally" 10 W LED "outdoor floodlights" derived via Ebay, and was quite appalled by the original wiring thereto, which I changed. (They "died" after about 2 years!)
However, apart from their originally questionable electrical safety, I note that, while the cases stood up to the weather, the screws which held those cases together tended to rust!
 
FrodoOne said:
You (eveares) seem to require "quite a lot of light"
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Well I could do better by having 4 x 400w Metal Halide flood lights. Then that would be good to light up a 8M x 15m area up.

I take it a 70w MH would draw around 85-95W once you account for the ballast's own power use.
 
surely there are better quality LED lamps to suit?

theatrical lamps are being/have been changed over the last few years, with vast improvements in reliability and economy. Some of these were much more powerful than you're used to.
 
D

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