can I overboard this floor?

[DavidA1982]

Hi all

I'm looking to put down engineered flooring in my dining room. The floor is currently the original floorboards, but as the adjoining rooms have new floors in them there is a step down in to the dining room and I want it all level through the house (plus I've got the engineered wood flooring already and it's taking up loads of space!).

The existing floor feels solid and looks nice and flat, but I've put a long spirit level across it and there is clearly a ridge in the middle of the room, where it seems one of the beams is a bit higher than the others. The pictures attached show the ridge. The level is 1.8m long, and in some of them you can clearly see my car keys can fit under the gap.

So.... what do I do? The plan was to overboard with 9mm ply, and then put down the engineered wood boards (20mm). Can I Still do it, or is my floor too uneven?

Thanks

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• DavidA1982
• 5 Jan 2013
• 1

Untitled

• DavidA1982
• 5 Jan 2013
• 1

Untitled

• DavidA1982
• 5 Jan 2013
• 1

Untitled

• DavidA1982
• 5 Jan 2013
• 1

 

[mattysupra]

yes you can but that wont help. You need to use a firbe bonded smoothing compound.

This posy may help - http://theflooringforum.com/showthread.php?5493-1-half-is-concrete-and-the-other-is-floor-boards

It is actually referring to wood floor meeting a concrete floor but same prep anyway.

 

[DavidA1982]

Thanks. Would the smoothing compound be cement-based? Won't that cause an issue with moisture? (This is an old victorian terrace, and the floor is on the ground floor)

If I can't just overboard it and float the engineered wood flooring on top of it, I might just give it a miss and carpet it instead, and save my nice floor for the next house.

 

[mattysupra]

Hi, you will still need to overboard with plywood but you only require a 4-6mm plywood.

You then apply the compound to this. You wont have moisture issues as the compounds chemical cure and also the plywood protects the floorboards while its curing. The Fibre reinforced compounds are manufactured for doing exactly as suggested.

You are not applying a full concrete screed at 50mm etc. Simply at around 3mm average.

 

[DavidA1982]

Excellent, thanks. Sounds like it might not be so tough after all.

I've had a look for products. I liked the Mapei and Ardex stuff when I did the tiling, so do I need something like Mapei Fiberplan or Ardex FA 20? Both are described as rapid-set (and are pricey!). Do you know of any slower-setting products? Rapid-set scares me a bit.

 

[JohnD]

you might consider taking up the boards over the hump and shaving down thr joist (if that's what it is) or the bearing surfaces of the boards.

It might also be pipes or steelwork.

 

[dazlight]

Excellent, thanks. Sounds like it might not be so tough after all.

I've had a look for products. I liked the Mapei and Ardex stuff when I did the tiling, so do I need something like Mapei Fiberplan or Ardex FA 20? Both are described as rapid-set (and are pricey!). Do you know of any slower-setting products? Rapid-set scares me a bit.

Mapei renovation is a lot cheaper and also level flex is a cheaper one both are good.

 

[DavidA1982]

Wow - you aren't kidding, that's a lot cheaper! Thanks.

 

[DavidA1982]

Hmm. This might be a bit beyond me, and I've got a few other flooring jobs that I would rather have a professional do as well. I'm not sure if I'm breaking the rules by doing this, but is anyone able to recommend a fitter? The job is in Chelmsford.

 

[regsmyth]

Wont your doorways end up a bit low?

 

[dazlight]

Hmm. This might be a bit beyond me, and I've got a few other flooring jobs that I would rather have a professional do as well. I'm not sure if I'm breaking the rules by doing this, but is anyone able to recommend a fitter? The job is in Chelmsford.

look on here mate

http://theflooringforum.com/listing.php?do=list&region=Merseyside