Can i paint straight onto new plaster?
- Thread starter themaddog
- Start date
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Water down your first coat of paint. Instructions will be on the tin although I usualy thin it out more than instructed. As an example, Dulux Trade Supermatt states 1 part water 3 parts paint. I find this far too thick so usually water down half and half. Goes on much better.
Regards
Fred
Regards
Fred
Whatever you do, dont PVA new plaster, just give the ceiling a light rub down to get rid of the nibs, then paint with a diluted white matt paint.
Dont use vinyl paint, and dont use silk, just ordinary super matt.(non vinyl)
Thin the paint down by approx 30% and paint that on the ceiling.
This will seal the plaster, and show up any imperfections, and there will be some, trowel marks, indents, nics etc, this will show up more in the artificial light.
If you have any of these, knock up some powder filler, and fill, when dry, sand them down, then before your going to roll your proper coats, get some diluted paint, and brush on these filled areas a couple of times.
Dont roll the filled bits, but brush them.
When dry, then you can roll, I would suggest that your second coat you still thin down by about 10-15% specially if its a good quality paint.
And then your third coat I would still add just a tad of water, not only will it go on smoother, but it will give you a better finish, and you wont lose any of the depth of the white.
I always water my paint down, and I do this for a living, but sometimes the Diyer paints straight from the can, and it can make the paint covering draggy and gloopy, as no offence but the diyer is slower than than the professional, therefore this way will life easier for you.
Dont use vinyl paint, and dont use silk, just ordinary super matt.(non vinyl)
Thin the paint down by approx 30% and paint that on the ceiling.
This will seal the plaster, and show up any imperfections, and there will be some, trowel marks, indents, nics etc, this will show up more in the artificial light.
If you have any of these, knock up some powder filler, and fill, when dry, sand them down, then before your going to roll your proper coats, get some diluted paint, and brush on these filled areas a couple of times.
Dont roll the filled bits, but brush them.
When dry, then you can roll, I would suggest that your second coat you still thin down by about 10-15% specially if its a good quality paint.
And then your third coat I would still add just a tad of water, not only will it go on smoother, but it will give you a better finish, and you wont lose any of the depth of the white.
I always water my paint down, and I do this for a living, but sometimes the Diyer paints straight from the can, and it can make the paint covering draggy and gloopy, as no offence but the diyer is slower than than the professional, therefore this way will life easier for you.
Hi Spice, nice answer! And it's raised a couple of questions so I'm gonna hijack this thread to ask 'em.
You say don't use Vinyl. Obviously for the mist coat Vinyl's not good. But can one stick a vinyl on after it's been misted? Or should the net two coats be supermatt too? I know supermatt allows the plaster to breathe and dry out ful but say it's fully dry, is Vinyl OK?
One other thing, you say the imperfections show up once painted. At the weekend I stuck supermatt all over a room in my house which I'd re-plastered a few weeks ago. I was surprised that I couldn't see a single blemish! I guess it's something to do with less light reflecting.
Methinks I'll be telling all my customers to use matt paint from now on!
Regards
Fred
You say don't use Vinyl. Obviously for the mist coat Vinyl's not good. But can one stick a vinyl on after it's been misted? Or should the net two coats be supermatt too? I know supermatt allows the plaster to breathe and dry out ful but say it's fully dry, is Vinyl OK?
One other thing, you say the imperfections show up once painted. At the weekend I stuck supermatt all over a room in my house which I'd re-plastered a few weeks ago. I was surprised that I couldn't see a single blemish! I guess it's something to do with less light reflecting.
Methinks I'll be telling all my customers to use matt paint from now on!
Regards
Fred
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C
confidentincompetent
Yep good post spice.. Though I dont find using vinyl Matt (trade) as a mist coat a problem. Then carry on with vinyl matt or silk for the finish coats..Done quite a few jobs over the years which i started off with bare plaster/ vinyl matt etc and when stripping off wallpaper etc the old vinyl is still solid, which of course if it had been pva'd patches of bare plaster would be all over. I find supermatt very porous, ok for large jobs where plaster probably has'nt had time to fully dry out.
Vinyl Matt can be used directly onto new/bare plaster. However, the new plaster MUST be fully dried out when using Vinyl Matt.
Supermatt is great for certain enviroments i.e. when new plaster that has not fully dried out.
Not all Matt paints can be used on new/bare plaster "FredFlintstone" so be carefull what you advse clients etc.........
Also, one paint makers version of matt emulsion can be an entirely different to another paint makers !
Supermatt is great for certain enviroments i.e. when new plaster that has not fully dried out.
Not all Matt paints can be used on new/bare plaster "FredFlintstone" so be carefull what you advse clients etc.........
Also, one paint makers version of matt emulsion can be an entirely different to another paint makers !
I agree, and meant to say, that dont use vinyl matt or silk on new plaster that has been bonded then skimmed.
TBH,and just to be on the safe side I would still use supermatt on skimmed plaster, rather than use Vinyl matt first, reason is I used to always do this as didnt have any problems, until last year I had problems, so since then I have always used non vinyl matt.
Afterwards you miscoated with your non vinyl matt, then you can follow thru with your vinyl colour of your choice.
TBH,and just to be on the safe side I would still use supermatt on skimmed plaster, rather than use Vinyl matt first, reason is I used to always do this as didnt have any problems, until last year I had problems, so since then I have always used non vinyl matt.
Afterwards you miscoated with your non vinyl matt, then you can follow thru with your vinyl colour of your choice.
FredFlintstone said:
All I can say Fred is that you must have had a bl00dy good plasterer,
cause I find all new plaster looks great in the daylight, but you turn on the light in that room and thats normally when you see the little nics etc.spice said:All I can say Fred is that you must have had a b***dy good plasterer,
It was ME who plastered the room!
I know there are blemishes there because I'd seen a couple before painting but the Dulux Trade Supermatt I used seemed to mask them wonderfully. I've found them now though but am going to shine a flourescent light down the wall to find any others that may be lurking. There won't be many (
) but there's bound to be one or two more.Regards
Fred
Cheers all,
I'm relieved that Vinyl Matt can be used after misting with Supermatt! My wife just went out at the weekend and spent £60 on 10 litres of Dulux Trade Vinyl Matt - the stuff that's mixed on the machine so it can't be taken back. £60! The white stuff is only £20 for 5 litres so why on earth is it an extra tenner for a little bit of colour?!
The last room I skimmed and painted was misted and painted with a normal matt which is fine but I was worried that I might get problems putting Vinyl over new skim.
Should I thin out the Vinyl Matt with 10 - 15% water before application?
I usually advise clients to read the instructions on the tin of their chosen paint and make sure they apply a mist coat in accordance with the instructions but then I usually go on to say a supermatt is best as a mist coat (purely because that's what I've always done on my own properties and never had any issues).
One other thing, for the kitchen ceiling I was going to get Quick Drying Diamond Eggshell. For £37 for 5 litres I think I'll give it a miss! The kitchen's well ventilated and has plenty of extraction so I'll take the chance. If it needs to be re-done in a year or two then so be it - I'll have learned my lesson!
Regards
Fred
I'm relieved that Vinyl Matt can be used after misting with Supermatt! My wife just went out at the weekend and spent £60 on 10 litres of Dulux Trade Vinyl Matt - the stuff that's mixed on the machine so it can't be taken back. £60! The white stuff is only £20 for 5 litres so why on earth is it an extra tenner for a little bit of colour?!
The last room I skimmed and painted was misted and painted with a normal matt which is fine but I was worried that I might get problems putting Vinyl over new skim.
Should I thin out the Vinyl Matt with 10 - 15% water before application?
I usually advise clients to read the instructions on the tin of their chosen paint and make sure they apply a mist coat in accordance with the instructions but then I usually go on to say a supermatt is best as a mist coat (purely because that's what I've always done on my own properties and never had any issues).
One other thing, for the kitchen ceiling I was going to get Quick Drying Diamond Eggshell. For £37 for 5 litres I think I'll give it a miss! The kitchen's well ventilated and has plenty of extraction so I'll take the chance. If it needs to be re-done in a year or two then so be it - I'll have learned my lesson!
Regards
Fred
spice said:I agree, and meant to say, that dont use vinyl matt or silk on new plaster that has been bonded then skimmed.
TBH,and just to be on the safe side I would still use supermatt on skimmed plaster, rather than use Vinyl matt first, reason is I used to always do this as didnt have any problems, until last year I had problems, so since then I have always used non vinyl matt.
Afterwards you miscoated with your non vinyl matt, then you can follow thru with your vinyl colour of your choice.
Could you enlighten me "spice" with the problem you had with Vinyl Matt etc...................?
Incase i fall into an simular scenario........
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