can I replace this bleed plug

[billyballots]

Hi everyone, I can't bleed my radiator because its rounded off on the square bit. I've read some other threads where the fix was to replace the whole plug. Can this plug be replaced before I go and buy the parts? Couldnt say how old rad is, its been painted and I can see some rust.

I don't want to remove the plug to find I get myself in a worst situation because its so old. Am I safe to go for it with this old radiator?

 

[ianmcd]

I wouldnt even attempt to replace that, new rad time

 

[billyballots]

Thanks Ian, would you put a new radiator within the realms of a diyer or time to call a plumber?

 

[ianmcd]

Not really a hard thing to do if you can get an exact width as the rad you already have, definately within the skills of a keen DIYr,

 

[billyballots]

Cheers ian, much appreciated I will look into in a bit more.

 

[just pumps]

Use an easibleed valve to buy yourself time.

https://easibleed.co.uk/

 

[Madrab]

Or if you have a dremel and it isn't in too tight, cut a slot in it for a screwdriver.

 

[Nige F]

Couldnt say how old rad is, its been painted and I can see some rust.

'70's - 80's Stelrad . They had to be painted . New ones come nicely powder coated

 

[shambolic]

A rad key would remove that in 2 minutes.
Turn of both isolating valves then unscrew it. put new one in with some ptfe tape on it and it will be fine. What’s to lose?
if it doesn’t work you then buy a new radiator.

 

[Terrywookfit]

With enough heat it will fall out !! But need some paint after .

 

[FiremanT]

Use proper rad spanner. You might have to hammer it in, but the tighter the better.

https://media.screwfix.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/11467_P&$prodImageMedium$

 

[billyballots]

Hi Guys,

Thank you for all the suggestions, I'm going to have a ride down to one of the sheds soon so I need to make my mind up shorty! Could I please trouble you for a few more queires?

If I go for trying to replace the bleed plug I need:
-A new bleed plug
-Radiator spanner
-PTFE tap

Having inspected the valves a bit closer it looks like one is seized (with the plastic on it) and the other just has a screw inside the cylinder. IS there any way of identifying which is the lockshield? If I bite the bullet I guess I should also put new valves, preferably TRVs on when replacing the radiator. I measured the rad and its 1440mmx600mm, all the sheds seem to sell 1400mm, how do you overcome this slight difference in length? Do you need a couple of really short lengths of pipe? Just wondering if I should pick any additional tools or parts up to cover all bases.

As I understand it to replace it I need a new radiator, 2X TRVs, some slipjoint pliers and PTFE tape (I have a few adjustable wrenchs already).

Cheers

Billy

 

[FiremanT]

Radiator Valve Extension 20mm

 

[FiremanT]

Normally, the valve with the conventional head is the on/off, the other the lockshield. In practice, both may be fully open anyway. Mist, if nit all, TRV's are now bi-directional. Is that 10mm copper? If so you may need some jointing compound to lightly smear the olives. 10mm is much more likely to leak. Be careful to strongly support the valve while undoing the nut or you will end up damaging the pipe.

 

[billyballots]

Thanks fireman, I'll have a look at the extenders. Yes its 10mm copper with some added paint. I'll add jointing compound and extenders to the list.

Supporting the pipe is holding it level with the pliers whilst unscrewing the nuts right?