Can I sand and varnish this floor?

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Just ripped up the carpet, can I sand down these floors and varnish them?
Also as the chimney breast was here it looks as though it’ll need some new wood planks maybe? Or is this sub floor and I shouldn’t do it at all? There is quite a draft that comes up from the bay window side...
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Ask the mods to transfer your thread to the Flooring Forum.

Your floor boards can certainly be sanded and finished after due prepping of the floor - by and large, your boards are in good nick.

fwiw: there are a number of other non-flooring issues showing that might need attending to before any sanding and finishing?
 
Ahh brilliant, I’ll ask the mods!

Do I need to do anything underneath the boards? For insulation etc? Maybe it’ll reduce the noise too?
 
As part of your prepping there's almost no limit to what you could do but unless, for instance, you have need for insulation in the floor then its not a necessity.
Noise proofing is very difficult to achieve - but research it.

Why not read back posts on this sanding subject using the "Search" facility, and the Related Threads below (& their Related Threads)?
fwiw: you could also read some of my back posts on this kind of work?

Thing is, there's an lot of variables that go into prepping and sanding and finishing such a floor as yours.
 
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Thankyou for your replies, yes I’ll take a look into the forum to see if I can find any answers, I’ve give it a search :)

Is it possible to replace maybe 6 rows?

insulating wise, I’m not sure if its just cold in there as I’ve replaced the boiler and under a pressure test, it blew a tiny hole out of all the bay window radiators, so it’s rather chilly in there now!
 
I may be out to lunch here but:
You call the rads radiators which suggests that you are not a GaSafe or a plumber. Perhaps you'll call a Gasafe in to certify your installation?
Chilly in the house or the room?

When the floor is properly prepped then filler is used so that the finish looks pretty uniform - removing six rows of board isn't necessary unless you want a more uniform floor?
Its simple enough to do but long lengths of good quality T&G are not cheap.
 
No not a plumber at all.

I moved in 2 weeks ago, first thing I did was replace the 25 year old boiler with a Worcester Bosch 8000. But when they pressure tested it the bay window rads and the bathroom rad leaked though a rust spot. They’ve tried to drop some stuff down to see if they can cover up the problem with no avail. Only leaves me with me having to buy a few new radiators, probably re locating them too as curved bay radiators are very expensive.

mad for replacing the floor, it’s just that part where the chimney was, it looks like odd bits have been thrown together as you can see from the last photo. And I imagine that won’t look nice sanded and painted.
 
What are you getting all question marked about just because you've misunderstood whats been said.

I wasn't criticising Chriswheela, i was merely saying what had led me to think he wasn't qualified to hang that new boiler or work with gas.
He did say "I've replaced the boiler" nothing about any third party testers -whoever they are?
Typically, anyone experienced in C/H would call them rads

Old school hiring practice was to hand the FNG a brick and ask him to name as many parts of it as he could.
Knowing the trade terms is usually a good indicator of how narrow or how broad a persons knowledge is - didn't you know this?

Chriswheela, large radius bent rads are cut and welded to a template shape - so its possible that your bay rads have failed at the welds and could be repaired?

You could lift and replace the boards - the new boards would be a slightly different size unless you find salvaged stuff or have them custom made - but straightforward to fit.

There are other issues in that room to attend to before any flooring work.
 
Prepping the floor. MAKE SURE ALL THE NAILS ARE BELOW THE SURFACE! Save you a ton on sander belts! I know from negative experience!
 

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