Can I use standard 3-core flex outside?

[wolfie882]

Hi

I want to run a permanent power supply lead from the house to the shed (the shed is approx 3 feet from nearest point of house).

At the house-end of the lead will be a standard 3-pin plug plugged into a socket in the house.

The cable will be routed to the outside via a convenient ventilation vent in the wall.

The cable will exit the vent outside at 12" above ground level and will be stapled on the ouside wall and up to the underside of the roof overhang (it's a bungalow). The cable will exposed to some of the elements being on the outside wall, but will be largely protected by the 12" roof overhang (the wall stays dry in the heaviest rain).

The cable will then have to straddle the 3-ft gap between the house and the shed. Here the cable will be fully exposed.

At the shed-end of the cable (which will be run inside the shed) will be the male half of 3-pin 2-part cable connector. The other half of this cable connector will be attached to a battery recharging cable which is wired directly to a motability scooter stored in the shed.

What I want to be able to do is to be able to charge the scooter while it is in the shed by doing nothing more than plugging the cable connector together in the shed and flicking a switch on the wall socket inside the house. At the moment I have to set up extension leads and run them through an open window or door to the shed.

I didn't want to have to go down the "burying cable" route for such a simple operation.

Is standard 3-core cable safe to use for my purpose?

Thanks for any advice

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I want to run a permanent power supply lead from the house to the shed (the shed is approx 3 feet from nearest point of house).

Then do it as a proper permanent installation.

At the house-end of the lead will be a standard 3-pin plug plugged into a socket in the house.

That's very tacky.

Is that socket RCD protected?

The cable will exit the vent outside at 12" above ground level and will be stapled on the ouside wall and up to the underside of the roof overhang (it's a bungalow). The cable will exposed to some of the elements being on the outside wall, but will be largely protected by the 12" roof overhang (the wall stays dry in the heaviest rain).

What about protection from physical damage, and UV?

The cable will then have to straddle the 3-ft gap between the house and the shed. Here the cable will be fully exposed.

How high above the ground?

How will it be supported?

At the shed-end of the cable (which will be run inside the shed) will be the male half of 3-pin 2-part cable connector.

That's incredibly dangerous. Cable like that are known as "widowmakers", and not without reason.

I didn't want to have to go down the "burying cable" route for such a simple operation.

It's only simple because it's not right.

Is standard 3-core cable safe to use for my purpose?

Not really - it's not proof against mechanical damage, and will degrade over time from UV rays. You don't have to bury it, but you should still use armoured cable, or at least Hituf, and you should support it where it runs overhead (at which point it needs to be high enough off the ground - I can't remember the guidelines - maybe someone else can answer that).

And please don't power it from a plug - that's nasty - use an FCU with the load cable going straight through the wall.

However you do it it will be notifiable, and it should be tested.

 

[JohnD]

At the shed-end of the cable (which will be run inside the shed) will be the male half of 3-pin 2-part cable connector.

that is wrong, dangerous and unnecessary. The female (socket) part of a connector always goes on the supply, and the male (plug) always goes on the load.

Just like a plug and socket in your house.

That's just an aside.

 

[spark1]

I will make this simple and to the point Wolfie mate.

The answer is No Never in a month of Sundays should you do as you suggest

Bring in an Electrician or dont have permanent power in the shed---you ve only got one life dont waste it !

 

[wolfie882]

Hi all,

Thanks guys for the comprehensive replies. Believe me, I had my own doubts about the viability of what I suggested, and I take on board all the advice.

In responding to your specific points:

1. I got my males and females mixed up - I am well aware that the "pin" side of the 2-part connector should be on the "appliance" side of the connection not on the supply side.

2. I could have used the specialist cable as recommended.

3. The consumer unit has RCDs protecting the sockets in the house, although the socket I was going to use itself does not have its own dedicated RCD.

4. However, the 3 feet of cable between the bungalow and the shed would not be supported as such, and would be only 7 feet off the ground. I gusess that this, along with concerns over using the 2-part connector, scuppers the idea.

Thanks for the feedback. Back to the drawing board!

 

[HDRW]

Folks,

Apart from all the other problems with this idea, would using blue "Arctic" cable get over the exposure problem? As I understand it, it's designed for outdoor use.

Cheers,
Howard

 

[flameport]

Arctic cable has PVC insulation which is designed to remain flexible at low temperatures.
That is all.

It is not intended for fixed wiring, and a length of that lashed up between two buildings will have all of the same problems as any other PVC cable.

 

[Chri5]

Old school used / use black rubber flex, but rubber still weathers pretty quickly.

Hi Tuf 3 core 2.5mm core, and rather than have an aerial span could you make a bridge out of wood on some galv brackets, fit that at height and clip the cable to the wood ?

Indoors fit a 13 amp fused rcd spur adjacent to a ring socket, and feed the hi tuf from there in to the shed, terminate on to a MK weatherproof socket.

It is notifiable work, but the least you can do is make the work as safe as the regs suggest.

 

[wolfie882]

Thanks Chri5,

Where you say..."Indoors fit a 13 amp fused rcd spur adjacent to a ring socket"

I am a novice....can you explain what this involves in a bit more detail? Sounds like a task for an electrician?

Thanks

 

[Chri5]

One of these

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...ex/White_Contactum_Index/Spurs_RCD/index.html

You run a spur cable (standard 2.5mm TE) from socket, it terminates on the above accessory.

From the rcd fused spur you run the hi tuf 2.5mm

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HT2dot5slash3.html

through and up the wall to the bridge you have already made ( ) over and back down in to the shed.

The cable terminates on a

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56481.html


Now there's a few things you must do:-

Where the cable exits the house drop the cable down and create a drip loop, 3"-4" below the hole you can then bend the cable upward towards the bridge- If water does run down the cable it will run below the hole, rather than in it.

The hole should point upwards (from out to inside) again to prevent water ingress.

The hole should not be oversize and allow bugs to get in- putty or sealer should be used around any gap.

The work isn't allowed to be DIY because it's outside.
A pro would do the work in a few hours, and if they have a decent attitude would only charge hours worked. It's 2 hours work if you made the bridge.

Have you asked the health care people if they could get the work done via a grant ?

Not sure what makes you need a electric scooter, but if you've had a grant to buy it, hand rails, slope access (in the house) etc Maybe they would help with the cost ?]

 

[wolfie882]

Thanks Chri5,

Some good advice and tips. I now get a clearer picure of the different stages in the work required and the kit to be used. I will get in touch with an electrician.

Just one question. Where you say..."You run a spur cable (standard 2.5mm TE) from socket".

Can you explain what this means in practice?