can I use the cooker point?

Joined
23 Jan 2010
Messages
1,656
Reaction score
163
Location
Sussex
Country
United Kingdom
I want to know if I can use the gas socket in the kitchen?

Can I only use it for a slot-in cooker or can I also use it for a hob?

I am replacing the kitchen in my 1978 terrace house. It was built with a gas pipe running (under the solid floor?) from the meter cupboard at the front of the house to the kitchen in the rear. In the kitchen there was one blanked off pipe on the floor in the far corner and a gas socket in the wall. When I had gas connected (i.e. a meter fitted), the surveyor pressed the socket and heard a 'puff' as pressure equalised. He took that as the indication the pipework was sound (it was only 4 years old).
 
Sponsored Links
the surveyor pressed the socket and heard a 'puff' as pressure equalised. He took that as the indication the pipework was sound (it was only 4 years old).

so by creating a gas leak he states it's sound FFS!!! :confused: :confused:

in answer to your question. maybe, it is all down to the Manufacturers instructions some allow hoses, most don't.

the bayonet can be removed and rigid pipework installed in its place by a Gassafe Registered Installer Check on back of his card he is registered as competent in cookers as not all have CKR1 on there competences.
 
There was no gas meter - just sealed pipes.

so he could not have assessed anything!! to do a test would need a pressure be it gas or air and there would be no pressure in a sealed pipe as removing the meter would have also removed the gas pressure.
 
Sponsored Links
to do a test would need a pressure be it gas or air and there would be no pressure in a sealed pipe as removing the meter would have also removed the gas pressure.
The house was only 4 years old and had never had gas connected. If there had been a leak, where did the pressure for the noise come from?
 
In your Original Post you CLEARLY state that the "test" (very loose description!) was carried out the a Meter connected :confused: so which is it?? I smell a DIY'er trying to get advice :rolleyes:
 
Odd one this. If a meter was fitted then it would have been left with a sealing disc in it and a warning notice attached.......because the fitter would not have known what appliances (i assume) would/may have been attached and a tightness test would need to be carried out.

I suggest you congact a gas safe registered engineer to carry out said test and he will advise
 
think the OP is telling a lie somewhere along the line!! either it has a meter or it doesn't!
if the meter is a new install it should have been checked by the installer who may or may not check the whole installation for tightness. he is only required to test the meter and put a disc in if he doesn't want to test whole house.
 
The estate was built in 1978 with gas supplied to every house but no meters. If the householder wanted gas, the gas board only had to fit a meter between the blanked off gas supply pipe and the blanked off gas pipe in the house. The gas pipe ran from the meter cupboard, under the solid floor to the kitchen in the back of the house. In the kitchen there was a blanked off connection point on the floor and a bayonet cooker point.

All ends of the gas pipe in the house had been blanked off for 4 years when the gas inspector pressed the bayonet cooker point in 1982 prior to scheduling the meter fitting. I now assume this test was only to tell if the pipe work was likely to pass the safety tests when the meter was fitted later. I don't know what tests the fitters performed when they came to fit the meter as they only had access to the meter cupboard in the porch and I was not there. Immediately after the meter was fitted, the gas board fitted a Baxi Brazilia wall heater in the lounge and I think that fitter might have taken the seal off the meter.

My original post was to determine if tenants could get a slot-in gas cooker fitted to the bayonet coupling without the fitter having to hack the bayonet coupling out of the wall. If cookers cannot be connected to the bayonet coupling, I'll know to get it replaced when the central heating boiler is fitted. I can then make good the wall around the cooker point before I decorate.
 
My original post was to determine if tenants could get a slot-in gas cooker fitted to the bayonet coupling without the fitter having to hack the bayonet coupling out of the wall. If cookers cannot be connected to the bayonet coupling, I'll know to get it replaced when the central heating boiler is fitted. I can then make good the wall around the cooker point before I decorate.

not what you asked in the original post! (reproduced below)

I want to know if I can use the gas socket in the kitchen?

Can I only use it for a slot-in cooker or can I also use it for a hob?

I am replacing the kitchen in my 1978 terrace house. It was built with a gas pipe running (under the solid floor?) from the meter cupboard at the front of the house to the kitchen in the rear. In the kitchen there was one blanked off pipe on the floor in the far corner and a gas socket in the wall. When I had gas connected (i.e. a meter fitted), the surveyor pressed the socket and heard a 'puff' as pressure equalised. He took that as the indication the pipework was sound (it was only 4 years old).

a bayonet is suitable for a free standing cooker or when manufacturers instructions say it is allowable then a hob maybe connected this way.
in the abscence of MI's hobs shall be connected with rigid pipework.

the tenant could plug in their own cooker if it has a hose fitted and the bayonet can be inserted into the bayonet socket. (bear in mind there are 2 types of bayonet - standard and micropoint)
 
not what you asked in the original post!
OK, you got me there. I WAS asking about slot in cookers AND hobs. We have since firmed up the kitchen design and decided on the cooker slot. The help here has been useful in making the design decisions. :)

I'll make sure the gas safety check allows for a gas cooker. The electrical check will allow for an electric cooker to cover both options but I don't think electric cookers are consumer installable. Gas cookers generally require electricity, would they be connected to the electric cooker point or must I also provide a 13-amp socket?

If a 13-amp socket is required, I might change the current round box behind the cooker for a square socket box to avoid hacking into the wall later.
 
electric oven = high amp draw most likely to need 6, 8 or 10mm cable dependant on size
gas cooker = tend to have electric ignition and possibly a spit rotisary in the grill, most only need a 13amp plug as the draw is small

either way the cable needs to be kept away from excess heat. the isolation switch should be readily accessable and situated to the side not directly behind the oven/cooker.
 
I now see the low-current gas cooker flex can't connect to the cooker point as it won't be protected by the right fuse, thanks. :oops:

I'll probably get a 13-amp socket put in an adjacent cupboard. If the tenants want a gas cooker, their installer can cut a hole into the cupboard.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top