Can you solder a fiting on the pipe were you have cut of a nut an olive?

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As the title. Or will the solder not run right as the olive that has been cut off will leave an indention in the pipe.
 
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all depends on how much the pipe has been marked and how confident you are at soldering, never had a problem to be honest
 
If there's an indent in the pipe from cutting the olive off, then you cut too far. You only cut in far enough to then break the olive with a screwdriver. Post us a picture, and then we'll advise. But unless you've really domald ducked the pipe, then it should be fine.
 
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Yes I can solder after there has been an olive on the pipe, it does need to be clean and it does need flux, however as to if you can do it is another question as I don't know your ability. Even I can get it wrong, fitted central heating in my house 1979 and a good 9 months latter one of the many joints sprang a leak where clearly the flux had filled the hole and it took that long before the flux fell off. However I was using proper solder, not lead free stuff. I find lead free a real pain, the extractors needed to remove the fumes from the flux used with lead free solder take some setting up. I am an electrician rather than plumber and even soldering wires onto a circuit board you need air pumps sucking away the fumes, I know with central heating I would still use lead solder, with potable water no real option has to be lead free.
 
Quote,Can you solder a fitting on the pipe were you have cut of a nut an olive?

Yes but with precautions but why are you considering the idea ?
 
You could always "Tin" the pipe first, belt and braces.
 
Yes I can solder after there has been an olive on the pipe, it does need to be clean and it does need flux, however as to if you can do it is another question as I don't know your ability. Even I can get it wrong, fitted central heating in my house 1979 and a good 9 months latter one of the many joints sprang a leak where clearly the flux had filled the hole and it took that long before the flux fell off. However I was using proper solder, not lead free stuff. I find lead free a real pain, the extractors needed to remove the fumes from the flux used with lead free solder take some setting up. I am an electrician rather than plumber and even soldering wires onto a circuit board you need air pumps sucking away the fumes, I know with central heating I would still use lead solder, with potable water no real option has to be lead free.

Good job you are not a plumber......You would get fook all done.
The flux used on lead free is the same as lead solder.
 
Have you actually tried using Bakers or resin fluxes with non lead solder? It does not work, OK you can use non leaded solder flux with leaded but why put your health at risk? The flux is not classified as dangerous as long as it is not heated, see this example some are much worse.
 
Why would you use "Bakers" which from memory is Killspirits or resin cored solder on pipe fittings.
All common plumbers fluxes are suitable.
 
Yes I can solder after there has been an olive on the pipe, it does need to be clean and it does need flux, however as to if you can do it is another question as I don't know your ability. Even I can get it wrong, fitted central heating in my house 1979 and a good 9 months latter one of the many joints sprang a leak where clearly the flux had filled the hole and it took that long before the flux fell off. However I was using proper solder, not lead free stuff. I find lead free a real pain, the extractors needed to remove the fumes from the flux used with lead free solder take some setting up. I am an electrician rather than plumber and even soldering wires onto a circuit board you need air pumps sucking away the fumes, I know with central heating I would still use lead solder, with potable water no real option has to be lead free.


What are you blathering about?
 
Even I can get it wrong
Thats for sure,it's been noted in many of your previous posts in this section over the years.

fitted central heating in my house 1979 and a good 9 months latter one of the many joints sprang a leak
Just 1 what about any micro leaks allowing air to be pulled into your system and joints just about watertight with flux.

the flux had filled the hole
Examples of applying far to much flux and not correctly testing.

For fluxsake
 
After your posts I did look at fluxes, it would seem the one used in Uni was particularly bad, as the COSHH leaflets seem to say OK as long as under 500°C for most makes. It was some 10 years ago when I last read the COSHH for flux, so maybe all have now changed? I think any soldering faults from 1979 will have by now shown themselves, not really worried about the joints drawing in air.

However I do have that dislike for the phrase "Can I" or "Can you" I will never know your skill and you will not know mine. Also where one needs to be registered to do work, that also is unknown.

With a skill often once learn it becomes easy, I can't work out why anyone would have a problem fitting a 13A plug, yet I have seen where people have got it wrong, three wires only yet they get it wrong, how? So how can you answer a "Can I" question?
 
I can't work out why anyone would have a problem fitting a 13A plug

On that one, I'll support you Eric. I once saw a plug where the person had stripped back the protective coverings right back to the cable grip. It took a slight twist one day, and then went bang.
 
not really worried about the joints drawing in air.

That could be a costly lack of worry.
IMAG0026.jpg
 

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