Car charger with outdoor commando socket

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Hello, I am a Tesla w@nker and currently get by with just using a granny charger, we don’t have a dedicated wall charger and use a 3 pin socket to charge as this gives us enough overnight for our daily usage, think it only charges at about 8amps but it works. However we have recently moved to an off peak tariff where we get 6 hours of cheaper power so need to take advantage of this and get the car charged quicker.

I have seen people having commando sockets installed outside connected direct to the fuse board or main box outside and using the commando cable end for the normal Tesla granny charger. Is this ok to go down this route? Is it safe? I don’t need all the other features of a wall charger and this method will charge just as quick for a lot cheaper.

Thanks in advance Notters
 
Sounds like a great way to save £1000

Of course no one can switch it off remotely , but it’s only 16A
 
Yea, this connects to the supplied charger instead of the 3 pin 13 amp plug
 

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Please note, I will be getting a spark to do the work, just working out the viability first
 
Much better with a tethered wall charger. You won't have any loss of PEN protection which is a requirement for EV chargers so it would need to be rodded and RCD upgraded to a type B which is expensive. You might find a spark to do it for you but you won't be saving that much money if it's done properly. A tethered charger is also just more convenient.
 
Seen some people mention PNE, not sure what that is though sorry
Actually PME, but yes that is the problem with a granny charger, and it does not matter if 10 amp or 16 amp, the risk is the same.

It is all down to the earthing system, and where the car is charged. So if the car is charged in a garage, no problem, and if the supply is TT or TN-S again no problem, only with a TN-C-S also called PME is there a problem, but most domestic premises do have a TN-C-S supply.

There is a device to auto disconnect in the case of a fault, and this is why charge points are expensive. So if you need the auto disconnect device, then there is no real gain going down the commando socket route. Also, it is technically not permitted for an electrician to fit one, he could claim it was for a caravan or mobile home, but TN-C-S supplies are not permitted for caravans or similar vehicles.
 
Look at where your mains cable comes in and meter.

If PME it will say so.

Otherwise get a Canavan socket
 
I thought the charging circuitry in cars had some intelligence, and that if it can't talk to the charger via some of the wires in those multi-pin plugs to work out whats going on it simply isn't going to try and take more that 10A (or whatever) from the "granny cable" no matter what the socket or circuit could supply?
 
I thought the charging circuitry in cars had some intelligence, and that if it can't talk to the charger via some of the wires in those multi-pin plugs to work out whats going on it simply isn't going to try and take more that 10A (or whatever) from the "granny cable" no matter what the socket or circuit could supply?
I take it with the commando socket adapter it lets the car know it can draw more
 
32 amp cables are available
1738842542501.png
and they have the option to set to a number of different maximum charge rates, and have a number of safety features which may or may not be included. Including loss of PEN and RCD protection, most commercial garages have 32 amp outlets for welding sets, lifts etc, and inside a building there is no reason these should not be used.

There are also 16 amp versions, and 10 amp, the latter often with a 13 amp plug on them, and again nothing to stop them being used inside a building, where the problem lies, is where the lead is used outside.

And it does not matter if 10, 16, or 32 amps, the problem is the same, most of our homes have a TN-C-S supply. Using class II equipment outside is not a problem (double insulated and no earth connected) and lawn mowers, hedge cutters etc are in the main class II. The problem arises when class I equipment is used outside the equal potential zone formed by the house with the earth bonding.

The rules are getting stricter and stricter as time goes on, and the number of loss of PEN incidents is increasing. Distance from street furniture for example, and I am now retired and have not really kept up with all the new regulations.

Any other item similar to an electric car, caravans, mobile homes, canal boats, the list goes on, having a TN-C-S supply is banned, and we are told 50 volt AC (75 volt DC) is the limit to what any item can become live in relation to earth, even that is a problem, 25 volts can kill a cow, but in the rush to get electric cars, we are allowed 70 volts with EV's, seems a bit daft, however what we are looking at is the supply voltage limits, +10% -6% so 216.2 to 253 volts so 36.8 volts. And one method used to detect loss of PEN is auto disconnection if the voltage is out of that range. This works well with 3 phase, but with single phase, the phase being monitored may still be within limits. So often either the supply is made TT, or an earth rod fitted to take a reference from, this is not really an option when using a lead as shown.

I am sure we all, from time to time, use a class I items, outside for a short time, but to have a class I item connected for such a long time, is an accident waiting to happen.
 
Are we saying that the CPC is connected to the cars metal work ?
or is the risk considered a damaged cable?

As you are aware, it doesn't matter if its 10A, 16A, or 32A the risk is all the same to a human on lost of PEN

For a while a lot of sparks were fitting PEN loss detectors prior to the charge point. I guess they cost ~£140 , so there is still a significant saving to be had.

OP is your house on PME? can you post a pic of your incoming supply ?

Are you able to program the car to only charge during the cheap hours ?
 
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