Car Port

[bmouthboyo]

I would like to erect a carport to cover my campervan from the elements. I just wanted to check what you guys think regarding permitted development and any tips on the best kind to use.

I was thinking something along the lines of this, however, wanted your advice on what would be best given my space.

This is the space I would need it to be installed:

I would like to attach the legs of the carport to the top of this wall as space is very tight.

The wall is in line with my garage so I presume it is fine to do so providing I use guttering to ensure no runoff onto neighbours land?

Thanks

 

[Tigercubrider]

There are (expensive?) cantilever ones that attach on the house
Do you own the wall? Or is it party?
My mate's car port uses upvc posts bolted to the concrete drive, wooden horizontals, and corrugated plastic
His drains into his house gutter- yours can't

Allow for access if there are windows that might need painting above

 

[bmouthboyo]

There are (expensive?) cantilever ones that attach on the house
Do you own the wall? Or is it party?
My mate's car port uses upvc posts bolted to the concrete drive, wooden horizontals, and corrugated plastic
His drains into his house gutter- yours can't

Allow for access if there are windows that might need painting above

Regarding the wall, I am not 100% as this is our first house. The plans just show a rough boundary so not entirely sure where I can find out if the wall is mine? I assume it is purely because if you follow it back to the garage it is on my side so to speak, i.e from inside the garage it falls on my side if I follow the brickwork forward from the side of the garage.

We would like to keep costs down on this. Is the best bet to buy a premade package from say eBay or are there better alternatives?

 

[JohnD]

you can bolt a ledger plate to your own house to support one side of the carport, but presuming you don't own the other house, you can't fix anything to it. Both houses will need access for maintenance of the roof, bargeboards etc.

Check your local council website. I found that to be exempt from planning and BRs, mine had to be open on 3 sides, to be fireproof as close to a boundary, and the max permitted height was not enough to get a transit or similar under (remember that to shed rain, one side must be lower than the other. The roof supplier will tell you minimum slope.

BTW the cantilevered ones can pull the house wall down. A couple of years ago there was heavy snow, and several did this due to the extra weight. It is worse if a cavity wall, as it has little sideways strength, and worse in a bungalow, as there is less weight of wall above pressing it down.

BTW if you want to run the joists front to back, they will be longer and therefore need to be of deeper section, so more expensive. Mine run from side to side and are about 3 metres which was on the cusp of needing bigger ones. There are tables to calculate timber sizes and spacing for "flat" roofs.

p.s.

looking at the picture, I suspect that wall is to close off access to the back garden (instead of a gate). If the garden behind it belongs to your neighbour, the wall and walkway probably belong to him too. Building plots are most often rectangular.

 

[Diver Fred]

looking at the picture that shows the wall clearly I'd say the wall is yours, it's in line with your garage wall so was probably built at the same time - particularly as there is timber cladding on the neighbours side. Talk to your neighbour to confirm the ownership. Also check your deeds (you may have to ask the building society for a copy - it is possible for them to supply).
You'll probably need your neighbours 'buy-in' (agreement) to put a car port up anyway.
I think you'll be OK to put supporting posts on top of the wall. Either have the 'Fall' towards the front with guttering along the front; or the fall towards the neighbours side in which case guttering will go along the side and then across the front; in both cases the gutter run will go along your wall to the existing downpipe.

 

[bmouthboyo]

Sorry I don't think I was very clear what I hope to do. The wall on the right and path leading to it is indeed my neighbours, which I am not proposing to cover. Here is a quick indication:

I am not sure about the rules regarding the wall and if it is classed as mine etc?

This is the view from inside the garage where it is clear the wall is on 'my side' so to speak:

 

[Diver Fred]

Clearly yours - your garage wall is built up to the boundary, the dividing wall to the neighbours is in line with the garage wall.

 

[JohnD]

oh, I thought you meant the wall at the back

 

[Gazman16]

BTW the cantilevered ones can pull the house wall down. A couple of years ago there was heavy snow, and several did this due to the extra weight. It is worse if a cavity wall, as it has little sideways strength, and worse in a bungalow, as there is less weight of wall above pressing it down.

Seen one this afternoon, Collapsed on their car luckily no damage to the wall by the looks of it

 

[^woody^]

to be fireproof as close to a boundary

How do you fire-proof plastic sheets?

Isn't the requirement for fire resistant a building regs issue, not planning? And aren't carports exempt from building regs anyway - being open and all that?

 

[^woody^]

Timber posts with post plates bolted to that wall if the top is sound. Or posts on top and a plate up the side of the wall.

Then its pretty standard timber and roofing bars, or self supporting bars and twinwall. Pick the type of sheet and then just follow the guides for building and sealing it.

If you have PD rights and keep within the height criteria etc, then it will be PD.

 

[JohnD]

carports are exempt PROVIDED that they meet the conditions for being a carport. Which are in the points I mentioned. Perhaps some others I forgot.