Cast iron boiler descale - is this overkill?

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I know there’s a lot of good advice on this forum on this topic, so I’m hoping for any useful comments on the plan below for descaling my cast iron boiler. Thanks in advance!

The boiler is Potterton Netaheat Profile 50e, 25 yrs old and, for its first 24 years, never ever had any inhibitors added. I explained in a previous posting this was down to negligence on my part, as repeated modifications to the system were envisaged over the years, so inhibitor was never added! Then last year I flushed the whole system, used Fernox F3 for 4 weeks, then flushed and dosed just the heat exchanger with 13% sulphamic acid, and then after flushing everything refilled and added Sentinel X100 and X200 to the whole system. The system comprises 13 radiators (aged 3 – 15 years), HW cylinder, expansion vessel, Magnaclean.

Three months ago I noticed some kettling, not a lot, which must mean the heat exchanger is not as clean as I had hoped. 4 days ago I flushed the system and refilled using Fernox F3, as I’m getting a fair amount of magnetite in the Magnaclean. The F3 is currently in the system.

In order to make the descale as effective as possible I intend to apply possibly all of the following procedures, in sequence, to the isolated heat exchanger (not to the full CH/HW circuit):

1. Fill with 10% hydrochloric acid at 20C – 25C for 45 mins, drain and then repeated flush with cold water. (Fully aware of H & S risks and precautions).

2. If necessary, neutralise the residual effects of the hydrochloric acid with something like sodium bicarbonate.

3. Circulate 20% sulphamic acid at 70C for 2 – 4 hours, drain and flush.

4. Circulate 20% citric acid at 70C for 2 – 4 hours, drain.

5. Fill with 500g Fernox DS40 (one third of the box) at 70C for 1 hour, drain, and check the drained solution has not turned green from its original red colour. If it has turned green it means the DS40 has been used up in treating the scale/sludge, and more needs to be added.

Then, after carrying out the above, apply the following to the WHOLE system: drain and flush, refill using Sentinel X800, run CH and HW at max temp for 5 – 10 hours, drain and flush, then finally refill adding Sentinel X100 and X200. (The reason for using X800 here is to treat the radiators, with each radiator in turn being flushed as strongly as possible by closing off all the other radiators).

My question is, am I likely to do any harm to the heat exchanger by carrying out all of the above? And is 45 mins a sensible time for the hydrochloric acid to stay in the heat exchanger, given its potency and concentration?

Carrying out all of the above stages might be overkill, but my rationale is that since I can’t identify all the deposits lurking in the heat exchanger, I may as well presume they’re all in there and go for an attack strategy from all sides. I don’t envisage hiring a powerflush unit, but I will use a reversible circulating pump on the (isolated) heat exchanger.
 
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Hydrochloric acid, cast iron heat exchanger with rubber side gaskets, 25 years old......good luck with that. If your worried about a bit of noise, finish cleaning the system and add some system silencer and save up for a new boiler. So in answer to your question, yes its overkill.
If thats not the answer you were looking for then I apologise, but thats my professional opinion.
 
As far as I can tell, hydrochloric acid has no negative effects on rubber. Hydrochloric acid often comes in plastic (rubber family) containers, and H & S advise on using rubber gloves when handling this acid.
 
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As far as I can tell, hydrochloric acid has no negative effects on rubber. Hydrochloric acid often comes in plastic (rubber family) containers, and H & S advise on using rubber gloves when handling this acid.
You're probably correct there john, but the combination of cast iron, rubber gaskets, and a 25 yr heat exchanger plus acid is a recipe for failure. ;)
 
I'd give the acid a miss fernox or sentinel cleaners are the way to go the best thing is you can leave them in for a while then flush them out and give a good dose of inhibitor and get ready for a boiler change because theres always some muck you can't shift unless you use a pump
 
Stick half a bottle of fairy liquid in the system , boiler will be as quiet as a mouse.
 
Stick half a bottle of fairy liquid in the system , boiler will be as quiet as a mouse

Short term solution that only stores up problems for the future, surely? Washing up liquid contains 20% - 23% salt. Just what my steel radiators need! But thanks for the advice, serious or otherwise!

Reminds me of cowboy car mechanics who quieten noisy gearboxes by adding sawdust to the oil.
 
If you are going to use HCl then why then add sulphamic acid? They both dissolve limescale!

So why use citric acid? What is that meant to do after the HCl ?

And lastly why then use DS40 which is mostly citric acid anyway?

Its an old boiler.

Best replaced fairly soon for an efficient condensing boiler.

If it does kettle a little then so what its not doing you any harm!

Tony
 
Stick half a bottle of fairy liquid in the system , boiler will be as quiet as a mouse

Short term solution that only stores up problems for the future, surely? Washing up liquid contains 20% - 23% salt. Just what my steel radiators need! But thanks for the advice, serious or otherwise!

Reminds me of cowboy car mechanics who quieten noisy gearboxes by adding sawdust to the oil.

Been using it for years , still service a diplomat that we dosed 35 odd years ago albeit with original radiators.

Potterton tech suggested this year's ago , although their preferred detergent being tepol. :D
 
If you are going to use HCl then why then add sulphamic acid? They both dissolve limescale!

So why use citric acid? What is that meant to do after the HCl ?

And lastly why then use DS40 which is mostly citric acid anyway?

Tony, in my opening post I'm actually asking if my procedure involving these chemicals is overkill, so you're clearly saying "yes".

The reason for wanting to use several chemicals in turn is because no one of them is good at dealing with all the types of unwanted deposit (limescale, magnetite, sludge, and the other mineral deposits I don't know about). I understand sulphamic acid is good for attacking limescale, but not magnetite for example.

You appear to be implying that using HCl makes all the others redundant, and if so there would be no need to treat with further chemicals provided the residual HCl can be neutralised.

The reason for using DS40 after citric acid is that DS40 incorporates a colour change test. If I use DS40 without first using the pure form of citric acid then I might well end up using several boxes of the stuff, which is expensive at £28 - £40 per box, before seeing the colour change.

As for replacing the boiler, my calculations repeatedly confirm it is not cost effective to replace the boiler until it packs up, even though it is less efficient than current ones. Based on official efficiencies - which I know are theoretical - and our historical annual gas consumption and current gas cost, I have calculated I "waste" under £70 per year on boiler gas, but save far far more than this by not having to pay for a new boiler and its installation, pipework modification, and annual servicing costs. And on top of that, a new boiler has a relatively short life span that will mean replacement is necessary again after 8 - 12 years.

I will maximise savings if the current boiler can be maintained at or near its peak efficiency (of 76%). This requires a clean heat exchanger and hence the reason for wanting to descale as fully as possible. The noise from the small amount of kettling is not of much concern, but its presence does indicate deposits are present which is not good for boiler efficiency. So even if adding washing up liquid silences the kettling, the unwanted deposits still need to be removed in order to maintain efficiency.
 
If HCl then you dont need sulphamic acid.

If citric acid then you dont need an expensive DS40 but could use a Ph meter or strips of indicator paper.

But most would just overdose with the citric acid and not be concerned about titrating the exact amount to exactly neutralise the oxides.

Tony
 
Read the Fernox page here;
http://www.fernox.com/problem+solving/how+to+sheets/reducing+boiler+noise

Hydrochloric acid removes limescale, which can only accumulate if there has been a long-term water loss (slow leak, pumping over, F&E tank incorrectly set up, etc..). It causes 'kettling', localised boiling of the water under the limescale. Eventually, the heat exchanger will overheat at the hot-spots and will perforate.

If there has been no water loss and there's no kettling, you don't need it. If there has been and there is, then you do. I'd just bung in Ds40, as per the Fernox recommendation. It needs to be thoroughly flushed and neutralised, or it can cause more corrosion problems.
 

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