Cedar Shingle Roof

[Charles1948]

I have built and erected the frame of a summerhouse, which I am going to clad with cedar shiplap and roof with cedar shingles.

I understand the general principles of roofing and have downloaded various cedar shingle installation manuals. My problem is that none of the manuals show how to finish off the edges of the pent roof, I think that rain could penetrate from the side of the tiles and brown silicone would not look good applied at the tile edges. Does anyone have any suggestions re finishing the edges please? Also is it ok to use lead at the top of the roof? Any input would be greatfully received.

Charles

 

[BethesdaSlate]

You say you are cladding too, and if I understand right want to know how to finish where the top of the cladded wall meets the gable?

I would place a temporary flat board overhanging the gable on the roof slope. Then clad the wall below in shingles cutting snug against the overhanging board, then use finishing pieces (say about 5" in width) lapped from the lowest point first and laid parallel and snug against the underside of the overhang. Then take the temporary board away and shingle the roof giving a decent overhang, say 45mm, this will look neat and won't leak.

If using lead with cedar shingles it is normal practice to coat the lead with bitumen paint where it comes into contact with the shingle i.e on the underside. (I guess a layer of felt between would do the same job)

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

BethesdaSlate's method sounds fine in reality shingles are very watertight if done right, that said, to minimise the wind driven rain getting in between the shingles at their exposed edges I've seen shingle verges with a vertical strips of shingles down their length to cover the edges, you can also make verge tiles the same way you'd make hip tiles and clad the verge with that. At the end of the day ensure your underlay laps over the vertical membrane behind the vertical cladding and that should re-direct anything that could get in. There should be no need for any kind of flashing to be used externally at the verge.

 

[catlad]

If you are talking about a pentagonal roof, and want to know how to finish the series of small hips you will need to use lead or something similar.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

If you are talking about a pentagonal roof, and want to know how to finish the series of small hips you will need to use lead or something similar.

Nah, proper hip units are made up of two shingles mitred together, some manufacturers supply pre-mitred shingles, otherwise you have to mitre them yourself. No need for flashings on hips.

Way to ruin the look of a beautiful roof catlad!

 

[catlad]

If I did it you would never know flashings were there, but if they make something for the purpose all the better.

 

[datarebal]

you still need a soaker system for your hips or ridge if you make them up yourself. it does not need to be lead ..but metals need to be protected as berthes has said

 

[Charles1948]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. The roof is just an ordinary pent roof not pentagonal.

I think I will build a couple of little test roofs and see which of your methods has the best visual effect.

Regarding lead and the need go put felt or bitumous paint between it and the cedar shingles, this has set me thinking and I think I will put a cedar board across the whole width of the roof at the top, over the double layer of shingles in place of lead with felt beneath it to give a better appearance than lead, and of course waterproof with the felt beneath.

My next problem I guess will be what to coat the shingles (and cladding) with to preserve the appearance of new cedar.

Best

Charles

 

[datarebal]

i'd not paint them with anything. their natural oils protect them. take a photo to remind yourself how they used to look....

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Aargh!!! If done correctly there should be no exposed flashings whatsoever on a shingle roof.

 

[hardmetalking]

I'd use stainless steel under the shingles, it will last forever.

 

[datarebal]

soakers are not exposed! Hard metal is obviously on the right track.. (shingles wont last forever though)

Depending on detailing flashings may be exposed, and would not be anything to do with not being done properly, they may have to be.

In this case no flashing require.Soakers yes