Cental heating nightmare - help me solve a 12 month problem!

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I’m at my wits end and looking for advice – this is a long one as it’s been going on for almost a twelve month now, so bear with me (I'm including it all in case some is relevant).

System is a Glow Worm boiler 38hxi fitted downstairs, with Megaflow HW Tank in an airing cupboard and F&E tank in the attic.

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New rads (17 in total with TRV's) put in at the start of the year but the property had been empty before that so I’d never seen it up and running (had all been drained down). Nothing else was altered at that time.

The initial problem was that the boiler would come on but would then cut out intermittently. Neither could we have the HW and CH on at same time. The boiler was serviced and found to be working okay. The Port Valves were replaced and that fixed the problem of not having CH and HW at same time, but the boiler was still cutting out. If it did miraculously stay on, some rads would not warm up and setting the boiler at anything from 72 degrees to 82 degrees (the max) would cause kettling.

A check showed the system was very dirty and full of magnetite, so it was drained down and power flushed by a friend (he works for British Gas and was helping me out). The system was reinstated and seemed to work, but it was done in the height of summer time so then it wasn’t put on for two weeks. When I tried it again, it was back to cutting out.

Thinking it might actually be the boiler I approached Glow Worm who sent a Group Service engineer out. He said it’s not a problem with the boiler and it was working fine – he concluded the system is too restrictive and had too much 22mm going into 15mm pipework (but did not lift a single board to determine this – all he did was look at the pipes going out of the boiler). He stated I’d have to re-pipe the whole system to sort it out, but as a possible fix he turned down boiler from 38kw to 30kw output to alter the heat curve the boiler would be looking for. This fixed the boiler cutting out but the system then struggled to warm up - one radiator in front room still refused to warm up at all.

Because of this I suspected the pump might be operating at less power than it should (it had been disassembled and cleaned out during powerflush) so it was replaced with a like for like (Grundfos 50-60). This made no difference but the system is now really noisy around the pump and immediate pipework. When it starts to warm up there's lots of fizzing and whooshing which sounds like a lot of air in system and can hear air bubbling though some rads (constantly having to bleed upstairs bathroom rad and the bedroom rad at the end of the run). Once again I found we couldn’t have HW and CH on at same time.

I then suspected the noise and air could be caused by a block in cold feed from tank and that bleeding the rads was actually lowering the water level in the system without it being replenished. A check of F&E tank showed it was full of sludge and magnetite. The tank was also very full of water, but had not overflowed. I drained the tank down and cleaned it out before checking for a block in the cold feed - the tank refilled fine when water was drained out of a radiator indicating no blockage. However, a check of pipework around the flow and return in the airing cupboard with a magnet indicated some slight sticking (but only slight and no real adhesion – I could brush the magnet off the pipe rather than needing to apply any real force).

The friend who Powerflushed was called back in desperation. He could not remember if he has cleaned out the tank when powerflushed (I suspect he didn’t). The new issue of HW and CH not being on at the same time was resolved by replacing the external timer control panel to the boiler. He maintains the pipework can still be slightly magnetised even if there is a thin film of material on the pipe and not necessarily a blockage or restriction. He says the system noise will eventually go and to use something like Fernox boiler silencer to stop it quicker. He's looked at the pipework under some lifted boards and can't see that it would be restrictive.

I thought this was all going to be okay until I’ve gone into the attic this week and found the F&E tank is full of tepid, murky water (but not black and there's no sludge or magnetite). There’s lots of condensation in tank (and it also seems to be causing condensation in the attic in this cold weather). The noise around the pump is worse than ever.

I understand this indicates it is possibly pumping over (and the vent pipe is red hot after a while indicating it is forcing hot water up the pipework into the tank). The Rad in the front room still refuses to get warm until at least two or three of the other rad TRV’s have shut off. The pump was set to two, so I turned the pump down to its lowest setting but then the boiler keeps cutting out as the flow is not strong enough to support the heat curve it’s looking for.

I’m at a loss as to what to do next – I’ve gone through four different tradesmen / people now in trying to sort this and it’s costing me an arm and a leg to try and get it working right.

Can anyone give me any advice on what’s going on? Could it be the pipework is actually too restrictive? The usage of the premises before I owned it indicates they would never have allowed it to be cold there (it was a respite home for the vulnerable) so of all the things there that would needed to have been right it would have to be the heating and a botched installation is hard to believe.
 
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Pipe work from the boiler to the pump looks like 28mm?

No by pass?

Pump pumping down.



I would. Seal the system . Move the pump fit a couple of auto air vents and a differential bypass. Assuming no muck left in the system.


Does the boiler behave on hot water only?
 
The heat exchanger alone will take two thirds of the pump head leaving one third to run 17 rads, you have no chance of getting that working unless you get a proper sized pump.
 
Pipe work from the boiler to the pump looks like 28mm?

No by pass?

Pump pumping down.



I would. Seal the system . Move the pump fit a couple of auto air vents and a differential bypass. Assuming no muck left in the system.


Does the boiler behave on hot water only?

As far as I can tell, there's no bypass' anywhere. Direction of the pump is indeed downwards.

Does seem to work fine with HW only but I'd need to double check that.

The heat exchanger alone will take two thirds of the pump head leaving one third to run 17 rads, you have no chance of getting that working unless you get a proper sized pump.

That's interesting - maybe it was a mistake to replace like for like without knowing if the system worked in the first place (but as I'd just replaced and not added rads I'd assumed what was there would be sufficient)

Any recommendations as to what I'd need for a system this size?
 
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25-80 would most likely do it, but your looking at over £200+ for one of them bad boys!
 
I would stick another 15/60 in series with the one you got.
 
Would there be any problems from doing that? I thought any secondary pumps would need to be something like a bronze pump so as not to cause problems?
 
Now the interesting question!

Two in series or in parallel?
 
I'd have no problem in paying to change the pump to something more expensive as I need to get the issue sorted (and there's no way of fixing this really without spending more).

However (and this is where it shows that I'm someone who doesn't really know much about heating systems) would changing the pump on its own sort this issue out?

Or (and this is where I get confused) would a more powerful pump start causing more issues with it pumping over? Or is it pumping over because there's no enough force to push it around the whole system?

Would I be looking at having to do everything else that Dan_Robinson suggested to get it working right?

(sorry, lots of questions)
 
as long as the vent and feed configuration is correct, an auto bypass installed and set up correctly and the pump setting matched to the system requirements then pumping over shouldnt be an issue.
After all its not really "pumping" water, it is just circulating it, so if say both your 2 ports would shut all that would happen is circulation would stop.
I would still do all the things Dan suggested though ;)
 
The heat exchanger alone will take two thirds of the pump head leaving one third to run 17 rads, you have no chance of getting that working unless you get a proper sized pump.
The hex of a 38hxi has a head of 4.05m at max output when the differential is 20C. (It's about 16m!! if the differential is 10 or 11C) The problem is that a 15-60 can only provide a head of 3.5m at the required flow rate.

17 Radiators will be about 25kW, so reducing the boiler output to 30kW will help, as the hex has ahead of approx 2.3m at the required flow rate and the 15-60 can provide 4.1m, giving approx 1.9m for the circuit. Reducing the boiler output further will help.

This does require the system to be balanced for a differential of 20C. If a 10C/11C differential is used, a LLH or CST will be required and a second pump; or a much larger pump.

Dean's suggestion to use the whole house calculator is a very good idea as you will then know how many kW is really needed. The person who suggested a 38kw boiler probably added the heating KW and the cylinder kW together. This not really necessary as the cylinder can usually be heated overnight when the CH is not on; and in any case the CH will only require full output on a few occasions each year. Sizing the boiler to the max of either CH or HW sold be sufficient.

Setting the boiler to the correct output and balancing correctly is the first, and possibly only, thing required.

If the boiler is oversized, the rads are probably as well. But this is a GOOD thing as they can be run at a lower temperature to give the required output.
 
It's not actually 'pumping' over. The vent and cold feed should be upstream of the pump. It's overheating due to poor circulation and as a result the water is expanding and going up the vent pipe and into the tank.
 

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