Central Heating won't turn off (Worcester Boiler/Hive) - help please

[IKE34]

Hi,

I was just wondering if anyone knew the cause of this issue and whether it's a straight forward fix please?

I have a Worcester Greenstar condensing boiler (2013 model) with the hot water tank in the airing cupboard; and a Hive (Gen 1) thermostat - I inherited this set up when I moved in the summer and haven't bothered turning on the boiler until now.

What happens is I turn the boiler and Hive receiver on and then set the thermostat to 20 degrees. But when 20 degrees hits the Hive receiver says the heating is now off but the radiators just keep pumping the heat out full pelt until I turn the boiler off.

Also if I turn the boiler off but leave the receiver on, when I turn the boiler on again it starts the central heating again. I have to turn off both boiler and receiver for the boiler to 'reset'.

I've had a look on Google and it's suggested this happens when the central heating valve gets stuck? However, I'm not sure where/what the valve is. There is a small lever on the blue box (pic below) on the side out of sight nearest the wall - it appears to be stuck in 1 position. If this is the cause am I okay to try and force it to move?

I also have this device installed. I have no idea what it does but it was on a manual setting, which I changed to auto.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[scatmanjohn]

Turn off the power. On the side of the blue box is a button. (On the side you can see in the picture). If you push the button it allows the blue box to be lifted from the valve. On the valve underneath check that the spindle isn't seized. It should move freely.

 

[IKE34]

Thanks John. I removed the blue box and wanted to check this is the spindle please? I tried to move it with my fingers and it won't turn.

 

[picasso]

If you find anything else you don't understand ........ fiddle with it, press buttons, turn knobs that will surely sort it out.

 

[IKE34]

If you find anything else you don't understand ........ fiddle with it, press buttons, turn knobs that will surely sort it out.

If the implication is that I shouldn't be doing this because I don't know what things are then fair enough - I only asked if there is a simple check/fix.

 

[picasso]

Well your pump is now on autoadapt so it will be interesting to see what your boiler makes of that.

 

[IKE34]

Ok well I established that is the spindle and there is movement. Turn the boiler back on; set thermostat - all good. Then I tell Hive to turn off the central heating and the boiler still carries on.

 

[picasso]

Its not the spindle sticking, it will be the microswitch in the valve head (the blue bit)

 

[oilboffin]

+1 for that.Bob

 

[perilled_gerald]

Hey all.

I realise this is an old thread. I just happened to come across it on a Google search as I'm suffering from the exact same problem!
I have Hive and a Worcester Bosch boiler. The Controller was originally a Drayton/British Gas unit, and Hive just snaps onto the same backplate, so there were no wiring changes.

However randomly (not every time. Probably 70% of the time), our heating comes on, and then after reaching temperature, continues to stay on.
I can see that Hive switches off, you can hear the relay/switch changing, yet the two-way valve stays open to the radiators.

I have to fully power down the entire circuit to get the heating to turn off and shut the valve.

@IKE34 Did you ever find a solution to this? I'd be very grateful if anyone has any guidance as I'm not sure whether it's a wiring problem or just a faulty Hive unit.

Thanks

 

[SammyInnit]

Why do you assume it's a valve problem when it was working trouble free before you changed the electronics of the system?

 

[perilled_gerald]

You clearly haven’t read my message...

I don’t assume it’s a valve problem and didn’t say that at all. I just said that I can see it stays open. I don’t know whether it’s an issue with it that’s causing it to be stuck open, or that it’s still receiving an input voltage from the Hive unit.

Also, I wouldn’t say I’ve changed the electrics. As I mentioned, Hive snapped onto the existing backplate, as its compatible with the wiring of the existing Drayton controller.

Despite that... again, as I mentioned, I’m open to the possibility of a faulty hive unit, or anything else for that matter.

Thanks anyway for your extremely helpful input.

 

[SammyInnit]

You clearly haven’t read my message...

I don’t assume it’s a valve problem and didn’t say that at all. I just said that I can see it stays open. I don’t know whether it’s an issue with it that’s causing it to be stuck open, or that it’s still receiving an input voltage from the Hive unit.

Also, I wouldn’t say I’ve changed the electrics. As I mentioned, Hive snapped onto the existing backplate, as its compatible with the wiring of the existing Drayton controller.

Despite that... again, as I mentioned, I’m open to the possibility of a faulty hive unit, or anything else for that matter.

Thanks anyway for your extremely helpful input.

You said the valve stays open as if to suggest you'd expect it to be closed.

You have changed the electronics, in that you didn't replace a like for like thermostat. The wiring of it is irrelevant.

Good luck fixing it, sarky.