Change of heating controller - wiring question

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Hi,

I could use some advice on how to convert my current heating system to the Wiser platform please. I currently have a combi boiler which provides both heating and hot water from its ‘heating’ circuit (the separate ‘hot water’ circuit is used to provide hot water to a part of the house not serviced by the tank).

The hot water passes via a 3 way Drayton M1A actuator (V1 in the diagram below) which switches flow between tank, heating circuit or both as required - I believe this is called a ‘Y plan’ system and is fairly common?

What might be less common is that the hot water circuit then splits in two, with one branch servicing heating in the attic and one servicing heating in the main house. The attic circuit is turned on/off with a Drayton ZA5 actuator.

The overall schematic looks like this:
1664474204563.png


The current controllers are a Drayton LP522 which controls main heating and hot water and a Dayton LP111 which controls the attic heating. The only thing the LP111 does is switch the heating valve (V2), it doesn’t fire up the boiler (with the result that we can only have attic heating when the main house heating is already on. This isn’t a problem, I’m just providing detail on how the system works).

Because I have 3 different things to turn on and off (hot water, main heating and attic heating) I presumed I would need a 3 channel controller. Now that it’s arrived and I’ve investigated the wiring in detail I’m concerned that I might have been wrong about that, since I believe the MA1 requires power to be supplied on its grey ‘cylinder satisfied’ connection when hot water is off in order to correctly switch the flow. The LP522 can provide this (via its output terminal 1) and the 2 channel Wiser controller seems to offer the same thing, while the Wiser 3 channel controller only seems to switch on the specific channel that needs servicing.

However, if I order the 2 channel controller then I obviously wouldn’t have the ability to control the attic zone separately from the main house zone anymore. I'm quite keen to keep that control that as the attic is less well insulated than the main house and I wouldn't want to be pumping heat up there when it's not needed.

Can anyone provide any guidance, please? Is there any way to make the Wiser controller with its 3 outputs that only go high when something is required simulate the 522's output that goes high when HW is NOT required?

Many thanks for any help.

I've included wiring diagrams for the LP522:
WIRING THE PROGRAMMER.png


The LP111
WIRING THE TIMESWITCH.png


The Wiser 3 channel controller:
ON ON NOT.png


Please ignore the annotations in red, that was me trying to plan out what the equivalent connections were between the two setups.

The 3 way MA1 valve:
(Thermostat shown satisfied).png



And this is the wiring centre we have:
1664473953123.png

1664473969661.png

I realise the wiring is not very easy to read from the photo. As far as I've traced it through it seems to be basically in line with the 'Lifestyle Biflo' information in the bottom half of the instruction sticker. The major difference is that terminal 1 has been used to connect the 'CH ON' output from the LP111 controller to the brown wire of the ZA5.
 
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The 3 channel won’t work, as there’s no hot water off. A 2 channel would work if you set it (the single channel) to permanently on/wired that way, or order a 2 channel and an additional single channel.
 
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