Changing a radiator. My 1st one (be gentle)

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Hi guys
I'm under orders to redecorate the dining room and in the process intend to change the rad (below). 2 years ago a kind bunch of plummers rerouted the pipes after fitting a Baxi, but I've now decided that the old rad is very old, in fact it's older than that.

Anyway, my 4 main queries are:-
1). Can I still buy a double rad 600x1600mm as the largest I've seen on the net (Ebay) is 600x1200mm.
2). Can I replace the coper pipes with chrome ones as my rad snaps have warped with the heat.
3). What are the implications of having part copper and part chrome pipes as I'll have to use compression elbows/couplers to join them and hope that the pipes line up with the valves on either end of the radiator.
4). Is bleeding the rad simply a case of turning the boiler on and bleeding the air out of the new rad?

rad.JPG
 
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muffking said:
1). Can I still buy a double rad 600x1600mm as the largest I've seen on the net (Ebay) is 600x1200mm.
You could always have one made, but I'd check that you actually need one this big before splashing out.

2). Can I replace the coper pipes with chrome ones as my rad snaps have warped with the heat.
You can do if that's what takes your fancy.

3). What are the implications of having part copper and part chrome pipes
Nothing - chrome pipe is chrome plate on copper.

...as I'll have to use compression elbows/couplers to join them and hope that the pipes line up with the valves on either end of the radiator.
Er, "hope"? Really?

4). Is bleeding the rad simply a case of turning the boiler on and bleeding the air out of the new rad?
No. If you're altering the pipework then you'll need to drain down (unless you freeze the pipes and work incredibly fast). When refilling you should never turn on the boiler until you've vented the radiators. Refilling method depends on whether or not you have a vented or an unvented system.

Don't forget that you need to add a corrosion inhibitor to the system.
 
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Thanks guys.
I'll pop in to my local plumbing centres to see if they have a suitable rad as this would save a lot of messing round with reworking the pipes as I don't have the tools for bending or soldering pipes.

Going back on to bleeding, I'll need to know what NOT to do here. Am I best to close the valves to stop the pipes from draining and forget changing to chrome, or can I open the rad vent after fitting new pipes and expect the combi to replace the water in the heating system when I turn it back on?

Finally, can I just get away with pouring the corrosion inhibitor into the rad as I'm not sure what the original plumbers when they fitted the boiler originally.
 

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