Changing my 3 port Honeywell Valve head

[Hydra101]

Hi all, I hope someone can help.

I was finding that my heating was coming on every time I switched the hot water on. After doing a lot of reading and watching of You Tube Videos I came to the conclusion that I needed a new valve head. My system had a Honeywell V4073A1088 one and one You Tube Video showed that if you manually moved the lever to MAN there should be some resistance and it should slowly click back to AUTO, however there was no resistance at all with mine, it was just all floppy. So, I bought a replacement head - but got a cheaper version, Banico, which was advertised as being a replacement for my Honeywell.

Fitted it, wired it, all fine. But I'm still getting heating on when I put the hot water on! The lever does now move by itself to the MAN side when I select heating, and then when I select hot water it moves towards the AUTO side, but doesn't seem to get all the way across and I'm assuming this is why I'm still getting hot radiators with the hot water on.

Could this be because I bought a cheaper version, which maybe after all isn't an exact replacement for my Honeywell model - or could it be because there's another problem that I hadn't considered?

Can anyone help?

 

[HERTS P&D]

You should of fitted a new complete valve, which would mean a drain down.

Andy

 

[bazdaman]

Probably the body aswell, remember buy cheap buy twice

 

[Whitespirit66]

Yep. More than likely that you have a perished or dislodged ball. I'm referring to the rubber one in the valve . Remove the actuator head and try turning the shaft that operates the valve.

It shouldn't move far and should feel smooth in operation.

 

[Hydra101]

Hi Whitespirit, I tested that before I put the new head on and I could turn it with my fingers I guess about 35-40 degrees anti clockwise - would this be what is expected?

 

[hazetimesfive]

check the programmer.

 

[foxhole]

Valve could be letting bye, new valve required as already suggested.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Hi Whitespirit, I tested that before I put the new head on and I could turn it with my fingers I guess about 35-40 degrees anti clockwise - would this be what is expected?

Don't think that result is too conclusive. Before investigating inside the water part of the valve, investigate programmer as suggested by haze -

If you have a multimeter, put hw on at programmer and check that only HW ON terminal is live at the programmer. HW OFF and CH ON shouldn't be powered. If they are - programmer fault.

or

Turn off power to ch system at fused spur. Turn back on and turn on hw at programmer. Valve shouldn't move when you turn the hw on as it should be at the hw position already. If it moves, poss programmer fault.

If the programmer passes these tests, then it looks like a drain down to check internals of valve.