Changing roomstat from potterton pr2 to salus rt 500 rof

[Rdl]

Could anyone help with the wiring between these units on a potterton suprima 40 system?
pr2 wiring as follows red to com yellow to H and blue to N with a link wire (Brown) from com to TL.
Where would they go on the salus?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Terminate the blue wire in a connector block and position safely out of the way.
It is not required for this thermostat.

Red to L
Yellow to SL
Green and yellow to earth (symbol).

See page 5 of the instructions.

 

[Rdl]

Terminate the blue wire in a connector block and position safely out of the way.
It is not required for this thermostat.

Red to L
Yellow to SL
Green and yellow to earth (symbol).

See page 5 of the instructions.

The guy at the tech dept at Salus mentioned removing a link at the boiler,but couldnt comment on my wiring, this must be the Neutral? Wouldnt fancy blowing the board.

 

[EFLImpudence]

But you are only replacing the thermostat.
I presume it worked with the old one.

The new one will, if wired as I said, merely do the same as the old one.

Anyway, there don't seem to be any links on this type of boiler.
See pages 18 and 32
http://www.acwilgar.co.uk/Boiler-Manual-PDF/Potterton/POTTERTON SUPRIMA 30,40,50,60,70,80.pdf

 

[EFLImpudence]

 

[JohnW2]

<Y Plan wiring diagram>

Do you by any chance have the "separate schematic for internals" (of the valve)? I find it a little difficult to understand:

230V on grey wire: hold current position (orange 50-150V O/P)"

As far as I can see, the situation with 230V on grey (only) only arises when neither CH or HW are calling for heat - in which case I don't see why (let alone how) one would want any voltage (5-150V or otherwise) on the orange wire (which feeds the pump and bolier). I guess that,as so often, I'm missing something!
Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

I replied to a pm from the OP and didn't know if you can post pictures so did so on the thread.

Plus -

http://www.gasheating.co.uk/Mid-Position-Valve.html

 

[JohnW2]

I replied to a pm from the OP and didn't know if you can post pictures so did so on the thread.
<valve internal wiring schematic>
Plus -http://www.gasheating.co.uk/Mid-Position-Valve.html

Many thanks (and, no, I don't think one can post pictures,or even use symbols, in PMs) - that's very helpful. It looks as if the material in your link will answer my question when I've studied it properly - and that the switchery is a little more complicated than I had been expecting!

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

It appears that this new thermostat may be a wireless one and the wrong model came up when I googled.

If so, then more involved wiring will be needed.

I have pm'ed the OP.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It is. I'm sorry for the error.

Right, the receiver should be fitted near the wiring centre which is normally near the boiler.
Do you have such a box of wiring?

It (the receiver) will require a 240V supply with Live, Neutral and Earth connected to L,N & E.
You will have to intercept the cable that runs to the present thermostat and connect these to the Com & NO (normally open - switched live) terminals.

So, if you intercept the present thermostat cable you can connect the wires thus -

Red to L
Blue to N
Yellow to NO
Earth to Earth
Plus a link wire from L to Com.

The remainder of the thermostat wire is no longer required as the new thermostat (sender) can be placed at any suitable position.

 

[Rdl]

Wiring centre 10ft away from existing thermostat, so ideal not to change location. Thanks for this.
The young lad I spoke to from the supplier had completely confused the issue by telling us to "remove the link wire at the boiler for this thermostat", as we can all see from the wiring diagram that there is none,and otherwise pretty straight forward,with thanks again to yourself.

 

[JohnW2]

Wiring centre 10ft away from existing thermostat, so ideal not to change location. Thanks for this. The young lad I spoke to from the supplier had completely confused the issue by telling us to "remove the link wire at the boiler for this thermostat", as we can all see from the wiring diagram that there is none,and otherwise pretty straight forward,with thanks again to yourself.

Do you actually want/need a wireless thermostat? If not, life would probably be much simpler for you if you stuck a 'wired' one (like you presumably had before).

Kind Regards, John

 

[Rdl]

Many people build extensions to their homes or re organise them and dont want to go to additional upheavals of even more decorating due to re-positioning of the room stat, (Running new wiring).
When I heard of the possibilities of fitting a remote one that I can also program better than the main controller,and hard wire instead of it running on battery power,it means you have more flexibility for the part of the house you are using most. The Salus 500 ROF also has an extra switch that you can put at the entry of the property giving you even more flexibility for saving energy during this economic climate. A good idea for many? I hope it works for me!

 

[JohnW2]

Many people build extensions to their homes or re organise them and dont want to go to additional upheavals of even more decorating due to re-positioning of the room stat, (Running new wiring).

Indeed so, and a wireless one is probably often a good choice for that very reason. However, I'm probably wrong, but it was starting to almost sound as if, in your case, switching to wireless might result in more upheaval!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Rdl]

Glad to have sorted out the wiring John. Staying with the old stat may have been the best option. This is what is good about coming on here. You can get other peoples views and answers on problems.

Until the next wiring drama!

Robert.